démodé

adjective: old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French, the past participle of démoder "to go out of fashion," from mode "fashion"].

costume in cinema

 

rococo/georgian (18th century) films


rococo/georgian FILMS (18TH CENTURY)

     

ABDUCTION CLUB (2002)

This was surprisingly Not Bad, given the fact that it was released in the UK in 2002 and never made its way to the US. Sophia Myles stars as one of two sisters kidnapped by members of the Abduction Club, younger sons who in 1780s Ireland couldn't get wives via the conventional method given their lack of fortune. It's definitely teenybopper-y and no Grand Drama, but it's certainly harmless. The costuming was relatively nice, although many of the female characters wore what I would consider undress in public way too often. Only on DVD in the UK.

See photos at Absolutely Sophia Myles.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

 
     

AFFAIR OF THE NECKLACE (2001)

This is a tough one to review because you HAVE TO SEE IT because the costumes are THAT GOOD, but unfortunately the film falls short of its aims.  Hilary Swank seems out of place in a period piece as does the male lead, and the story is difficult to follow and played as awfully melodramatic.  However, that doesn't detract from the FABULOUS COSTUMES, and Joely Richardson is quite good as Marie Antoinette.

See photos at Rotten Tomatoes, and the official site.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

AMAZING GRACE (2006)

Nicely made, but very conventional heroic biopic, about William Wilberforce, the British politician who in the 1790s-1800s led the fight to abolish slavery. It helps that Ioan Gruffudd is so pretty to look at, and Romola Garai as his fiance/wife has GREAT late 18th c. costumes and wigs (altho her makeup was very modern leading lady in my opinion).

See photos at RomolaFan.com.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

ARISTOCRATS (1999)

This miniseries falls into the trap, shared by many movies about real historical personages, of trying to cover too much in too little time.  The story is about four aristocratic sisters in mid- to late-1700s England.  Unfortunately there are definite age differences between the sisters, which means that we jump around trying to follow all four throughout their lives.  The usually great Jodhi May seems miscast in her role as Lady Sarah Lennox, although Geraldine Somerville and Anne-Marie Duff are (as always) fabulous.  The upside?  GORGEOUS costuming.  It's worth sitting through (it's not THAT bad) for the costumes alone.

See photos at a Japanese public television site.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

BROTHERHOOD OF THE WOLF (2001)

[Released as Les Pacte des Loups in France]  Although this film is set in the later 1700s, it's not really what I would called a "costume movie" in that the few female characters don't get much screen time.  Nonetheless, it's a fun movie that mixes gothy/horror, martial arts, and period drama.  In French.

See photos at IMDB and Rotten Tomatoes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

CASANOVA (2005)

David Tennant stars as the famous lover Casanova in this BBC miniseries while Peter O'Toole plays his older self, Laura Fraser plays Casanova's love interest Henriette, and Rose Byrne is the chambermaid to whom the O'Toole Casanova tells his life story.  Whew!  Although it's a period film (set in 18th c. Venice, Paris, London and Naples), it's very modernized, both in its script, shooting style, and particularly the costumes -- which range from relatively period (altho they appear to have had a small budget -- Henriette wears the same red gown for years) to completely not-based-in-reality goth-ified costumes (if you're shocked when they arrive in Paris, just wait until they get to Naples!).

See photos at the BBC and Rose Connection (use Bug Me Not to bypass registration).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

CASANOVA (2005)

Heath Ledger stars as Casanova with Sienna Miller as the true love to whom he has to prove himself.  Eh.  It was mildly entertaining, but not overwhelmingly so.  Heath was relatively good as the charming version of Casanova (when they let him be), but this movie suffers from my issue with all Casanova adaptations:  what is interesting about Casanova is in fact the fact that he's a seducer and a rake!  Even the BBC version (above) suffered from this problem, altho not as much as this feature:  we aren't paying our $10 to see Casanova learn about true love and try to prove that he can be constant!  We're paying to see Casanova BE Casanova!  Anyway.  Sienna Miller is miscast in this, as she's just not a period actress (she reads too modern) and her brown wigs were DOWDY.  There was a cute subplot with Lena Olin as Miller's mom which I won't give away.  Worth a watch, but doesn't bear repeating.  The costumes were very middling -- no sack back gowns to be seen at all, Miller and Olin in bad wigs (Olin's was SHINY PLASTICY platinum blond!), really nothing I went "oooo!" at.

See photos at IMDB.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

THE CLANDESTINE MARRIAGE (1999)

eek!  I watched this about 6 months ago and completely can't remember it!  As I recall it was mildly entertaining, but obviously not memorable.  I do remember being surprised that it wasn't horrible, so that's something.  Sorry about the lame review, but since I'm not going to watch it again, this is the best we're going to get.  I'm remembering some weird fabric choices in the costumes...

See photos at CinemasOnline.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

DANGEROUS LIAISONS (1988)

The beginning, middle, and end of all 18th century costume movies.  The plot has taken a while to grow on me, being somewhat dark and tragic (I don't want to give anything away for those few who haven't seen it), but over time the fabulous acting has made me enjoy the plot as much as the costumes.  DROP DEAD GORGEOUS 1770s-ish costuming, with a fabulous sequence at the beginning where Glenn Close and John Malkovich's characters are dressed, allowing you to see the underpinnings and technology behind 18th century clothing.  Keanu Reeves isn't TOO painful, and the rest of the cast is great.

See photos at Queen Anne's Dangerous Liaisons page and Eras of Elegance.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

FELICITY: AN AMERICAN GIRL ADVENTURE (2005)

I admit it, I loved this (in a made-for-TV-movie/Hallmark sort of way!).  A sweet story (based on the American Girl doll series) of a young girl's coming of age in revolutionary America.  Marcia Gay Harden is particularly good as her mother.  Nice costumes, definitely referencing the doll, and I even teared up at one point.

See photos at the official site.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

HISTORY OF TOM JONES, A FOUNDLING (1997)

Another BBC miniseries, which will tell you right off that it's good.  Set in probably the 1750s, it's interesting in that it portrays an earlier time period than is usually shown in 18th century costume movies.  This is the classic Henry Fielding tale of Tom Jones, a bit of a rake and a bit of an adventurer, but really just a Good Guy.  Lots of beautiful gowns with cuffs rather than sleeve ruffles (earlier style) on Samantha Morton and the other female leads.  Definitely played for comedy -- some actors hit it right, like Aunt Western, and some go a bit over the top, like Squire Allworthy.

See photos at the Samantha Morton Lowdown.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

 
     

A HARLOT'S PROGRESS (2006)

UK TV drama about the artist William Hogarth and his relationship with the woman who inspired his series of drawings of the same name. I quite liked this - very gritty and realisitic in a not-too-over-the-top way, with some interesting modern touches. The costumes were very well done; women's costumes ranged from the harlot (first poor, then well off and trashy) to Hogarth's wife (very bourgeois).

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

THE INCREDIBLE JOURNEY OF MARY BRYANT (2005)

The story of Mary Bryant, one of the first group of British prisoners sent to the penal colony at Botany Bay (Australia), her life and her attemps to escape (I won't tell you how it all shakes out!). Really entertaining, dramatic story that has obviously been beefed up but is still well done. Romola Garai as Mary spends most of the film in rags, but during one period she's more nicely dressed and hanging out with society, and the costumes, wigs, and makeup are GREAT (altho Romola herself is in suspiciously restrained hair/makeup - keep your eye on the supporting characters/extras for more accurate costuming).

See photos at Capturing Romola and RomolaFan.com.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

JEFFERSON IN PARIS (1995)

Another mixed bag -- it's a Merchant/Ivory production, which in itself should be enough recommendation.  The plot centers on Thomas Jefferson's (Nick Nolte) time in Paris, where he becomes entangled with a married woman (Greta Scaachi as Maria Cosway) and then one of his slaves (Thandie Newton as Sally Hemmings, who Jefferson would go on to have many children with), while juggling his relationship with his daughter (Gwyneth Paltrow).  I rather enjoy the first half, which focuses on the Jefferson/Cosway/Patsy Jefferson triangle, but when the film tries to address the Jefferson/Hemmings relationship and the complicated issues surrounding slavery, it just doesn't do it justice -- this relationship probably needs to be the focus of its own film (or many films!) to really fully explore it.  Nonetheless, Nolte is not as painful as you'd think as Jefferson, Scaachi and Newton are (as always) mesmerizing, and Gwyneth Paltrow gives one of my favorite of her performances.  AND THE COSTUMES ARE FABULOUS, FABULOUS, FABULOUS.

See photos at merchantivory.com and IMDB.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

LAST OF THE MOHICANS (1992)

Okay, a lot of people have problems with this movie based on its somewhat cavalier attempt (adapted from the very romanticized book) at exploring ethnic conflict/relationships between English/American colonists and Native Americans.  But nonetheless, I have to say that it works for me on a shlocky-romantic-"I will find you!"-as-Madeleine-Stowe-is-being-captured sort of way.  Daniel Day-Lewis, who is either outstanding or annoying, veers between both in this film.  Madeleine Stowe works quite well as the daughter of the English general who falls in love with Day-Lewis's character (who is an English/American who has been raised by Native Americans).  Jodhi May is mesmerizing as Stowe's younger sister, and the early scenes show the two sisters in some great 1750s or '60s gowns.

See photos at dd-l.net, and coolmoviestuff.com.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

THE LADY AND THE DUKE (2001)

(Released as "L'Anglaise et le Duc" in France) The next time I wait far too long to see a really good costume movie, slap me, will you?!  This was AMAZING!  It tells the story of Grace Elliott, Englishwoman and former mistress to the Prince of Wales, who has long since settled in Paris.  She was once the mistress of the Duc d'Orleans; they are now just really good friends.  The movie details her life, and her relationship with the Duc, throughout the course of the French Revolution.  Not only are the costumes STUNNING, but all of the outdoor scenes feature the actors digitally inserted into period paintings.  Just amazing.  In French.

See photos at IMDB and the official site (click on "Stills and Clips").

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

MADNESS OF KING GEORGE (1994)

Explores the first (of many) periods of mental illness of King George III of England.  Great acting by Nigel Hawthorne as the king and Helen Mirren as the queen.  This is a sad yet amusing story of the machinations among the royals and government, and the relationship between George and Queen Charlotte.  Really great costuming, although you don't see quite as much as you'd like as George is sequestered from his family for part of the story.  Keep your eye on Mirren/Charlotte for great court gowns, and on Amanda Donohoe as a lady in waiting and Caroline Harker as Mrs. Fitzherbert (the unofficial wife of the Prince of Wales) for more fashion-forward outfits.

See photos at MGM and the Amanda Donohoe Appreciation Site.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     
MARIE ANTOINETTE (2006)

Wow wow wow. I haven't seen a more perfect movie in YEARS. I really just had an emotional reaction to it -- I'm pretty much in awe.

I've heard Coppola and Dunst speak of it as an "emotional portrait," and I think that's really apt and the movie really succeeds on this level. I'm sure it helps that I've read bios of MA and studied the history of 18th c. Europe, so I was able to fill in the blanks around the film. I'm not sure you'd need that background to appreciate the film, but I think it's useful to really get why the French Revolution happened and why MA ended up as she did, as the film doesn't go into this.

What I liked the most was the tone and emotional feel. On the one hand, it was a gorgeous, languid portrayal of MA's life. I really got a feel for what it would have felt like to live in Versailles, and/or as an 18th century aristocrat. The sense of luxury, frivolity, and beauty filled every scene. At the same time, it really brought home what it might have felt like to live with such protocol (the lever [the public dressing], being watched as you ate, etc.). While I'm sure not every detail was perfect, and I'm sure there were elements omitted or changed, it really brought home the feeling of that world to me.

The focus of the movie on Versailles helped me to understand something I hadn't really gotten before. Although MA was frivolous, she really did fulfill the role she was presented -- she eventually made her marriage successful, she artfully negotiated Versailles (her world, as opposed to the larger world of France), and she became a queen. Unfortunately for her, she did so at a time that the larger world was changing, trends that had begun in the 1740s or 50s with the early elements of the Enlightenment; and she did so at a time when Louis XV and XVI were not being the best financial managers for France. I recently read a biography of Mme de Pompadour that talked about the tradition in France of reviling the King's mistress, who was thought of as an evil influence, too decadent, etc. Louis XVI was the first king in forever to not have a mistress; as such, the public hatred and scapegoating that was usually placed on the royal mistress went to the Queen (who was usually a background figure in earlier reigns). Add all that with a bread famine, and you've got MA in the wrong place at the wrong time.

However, the film didn't (to me -- not sure how the average American would take it) present MA as "just a girl," as many of us feared. I do think it showed her as being trained and conscious of her role in society and politics. Except for a few bits of dialogue around court ceremony (which were understandable given she came from a slightly less formal court), she wasn't presented as chafing at her role. It did do a good job illustrating her changing termperment as she aged and had children and became interested in living a more "natural" (in the 18th c. Enlightenment idea of the term) life, but not as some "she's just a girl like you or me!"

Of course, there were certain elements that weren't 100% accurate -- whether or not she was interested in politics, MA was much more aware of her political responsibility (esp. vis a vis her responsibilities towards Austria) than the film portrayed. And they didn't age Dunst's face to match MA's aging (she really showed her stress in her looks; as soon as the revolution started, she apparently aged very quickly -- lost a ton of weight, hair went white, etc.). And the film was consciously taking an artistic bent, obviously in terms of music but also costumes, dialogue etc. But personally, I'm okay with that. The reality is that there are very few filmmakers interested in faithfully recreating history. While some may wish for that, if it wasn't the filmmaker's goal, I think as an audience member we can chose to say "It's not aiming to be accurate, I'm not interested" or let it go and evaluate it on its own terms. Which I did, and I LOVED LOVED LOVED it.

And the costumes. Oh, the costumes. You could have eaten them with a spoon! Again, certain elements were changed for artistic license (esp. the shoes), but they were all GORGEOUS. Except for Dunst's marriage dress, which didn't really grab me, and du Barry's weird gowns, it was all ravishing. They really got the color palette right, with every gown looking like some kind of pastry. Beautiful, heavy silks; gorgeous hats; just all amazing. I loved the sacques, of course, and anglaises, but most especially: the blue anglaise with the zone bodice (the one we've seen 100 pics of online), the chemise gowns (gorgeously cut and not shlumpy at all!), the pale pale green redingote MA wears for all of 2 quick scenes (I think I may have to make this one -- turned back collar, closed in front with like 3 sets of metal buttons on each side); and the very 1790s redingote (double breasted, big collar, big pointy-crowned hat) worn by Polignac as she is leaving Versailles.

I loved it so much, I could really go watch it again right now. Oh, and I wanted to recommend that you read Roger Ebert's review -- I'm pretty much right there with him on all of his points.

See pictures at Kirsten Images, Rose Connection (use Bug Me Not to bypass registration on both), and the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes.

My rating:  10 (out of 5)

MARY SHELLEY'S FRANKENSTEIN (1994)

Too dark of a tale for my tastes, but that's just me.  Obviously Mary Shelley had some REAL issues with that whole Scientific Revolution thang.  Kenneth Branagh is great as Victor Frankenstein, Helena Bonham Carter great as his love interest -- de Niro is "eh" (that's a so/so noise) as the monster.  Carter gets some great gowns, although they're definitely Hollywood-ized... but too much of the story (for me) focuses on the really dark aspects of the story (I know, that's what it's about) for me to enjoy it.  Rent it and fast forward through the non-HBC scenes.

See photos at CosProp.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

ORLANDO (1992)

A beautiful film that suffers a bit from a story that doesn't translate terribly well to film.  The story spans four centuries, from the Elizabethan era to the present day.  The costumes are absolutely breathtaking -- I would happily kill for the title character's white sack-back gown with huuuuuge paniers.

See photos at a fan site.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

THE PATRIOT (2000)

Mel Gibson as "the patriot" -- what more need we say?  A definite Hollywood-ized view of the American Revolution, complete with costumes that are good but have weird things wrong with them.  What's with Joely Richardson running around in her undies?

See photos at IMDB, Rotten Tomatoes, and FIDM.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN (2003)

Positives:  Johnny Depp (yummy) playing Hunter S. Thompson as pirate (see Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas for the REAL deal), Orlando Bloom (yum), Keira Knightley in some good (but Hollywood-ized) 1770s-ish gowns, based on my favorite Disneyland ride!  Negatives:  Geoffrey Rush doing that stupid Geoffrey Rush thing he does in every movie, Keira Knightley complaining OVER and OVER about her stupid corset (as though she wouldn't have been wearing a corset every day since she was about 6ish).  Still fun nonetheless.

See photos at the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes, IMDB, Rotten Tomatoes, KeiraKnightley.com, FIDM, Eras of Elegance, and Walking in Daydreams.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

PLUNKETT AND MACLEANE (1999)

It's been a long while since I saw this tale of 18th century aristocratic (and not so aristocratic) robbers.  As I recall it was pretty slight, although visually interesting -- the costumes are definitely interesting but goth-ized.

See photos at the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes, movieweb.com, LivTylerWebSite.com, and LovelyLivTyler.com.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

RIDICULE (1996)

The plot -- about a country aristocrat who comes to court to try to gain royal favor for improvements on his estate, and who becomes entangled with a lady of the court (Fanny Ardant) and falls in love -- is good but not great.  Interesting costuming that's not 100% accurate but pretty nonetheless.  In French.

See photos at IMDB and Fanny Ardant Online.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

SCARLET PIMPERNEL (1999)

This BBC miniseries stars Richard E. Grant as the title character and Elizabeth McGovern as his French-born wife.  Mildly entertaining but not overly so -- I've heard the Jane Seymour film version is much better.  Grant has the necessary swashbuckly-ness required for the role, but there's just something very small-scale about everything else.  The costumes are weird -- most of the supporting characters are dressed very nicely (particularly Emilia Fox), but McGovern as the lead female is in REALLY badly fitted anglaise dresses, particularly around the weird necklines.  She does wear a really good redingote in the last episode, however.

See photos at Blakeney Manor.

My rating:  2.5 (out of 5)

SLEEPY HOLLOW (1999)

Already a classic -- Tim Burton's retelling with Johnny Depp as Ichabod Crane Girl Detective (Depp's words, not mine!) and Christina Ricci as Katrina von Tassel.  Great story, great acting, a bit over-the-top ending but hey what are you gonna do.  The costuming is gorgeous if very Hollywood-ized and goth-ized -- they got the silhouettes and cut of the gowns right, but the fabric choices and aesthetics are very modern and goth-y (appropriately so).  I LOVE Ricci's black & white striped dress (you're surprised, aren't you?).

See photos at the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes, IMDB, and FIDM.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

TRISTRAM SHANDY: A COCK AND BULL STORY (2005)

A movie within a movie, based on a book within a book (published in the 1740s).  It sort of tells the story of Tristram Shandy, but it focuses even more on the cast and crew who are making the film.  However, it's not a documentary, and the modern bits are highly entertaining (plus it's a who's who of British actors).  But be warned that about 2/3 focuses on the cast/crew, and only about 1/3 on the period story.  Anyway!  Nice costumes, especially for the guys; the women's costumes are limited (altho Gillian Anderson wears a great dark green francaise).

See photos at IMDB and the official site (click on "Tristram pix").

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

TRIUMPH OF LOVE (2001)

I always worry when movies like this either come and go or are just straight to video/DVD (not sure which is the case on this film).  The story is adapted from an 18th century play and is very Shakespeare comedy-ish -- four characters who are variously in love with one another and (of course!) lots of mistaken identity, cross-dressing, etc.  Mira Sorvino is a bit out of her depth but looks good, Ben Kingsley is quite good, and Fiona Shaw (as Kingsley's sister) is great as always.  Worth a rental but don't be expecting another Dangerous Liaisons.  The costumes were fine but nothing to write home about.

See photos at IMDB.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

VALMONT (1989)

Okay, I have to confess that I hadn't seen this movie in about 10 years, rented it about a year ago and didn't even make it halfway through.  On the one hand, that means I can't really review it, but on the other it tells you something.  Pretty lackluster adaptation of Dangerous Liaisons -- rent it if you're REALLY into Colin Firth.  It looks like the costumer A) had only a vague idea what s/he was doing and B) had about a $10 budget.

See photos at Queen Anne's Dangerous Liaisons page.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

     

WUTHERING HEIGHTS (1992)

First, I have to confess that although I love Jane Eyre, I'm not really a fan of gothic. I tried to read this book a number of times when I was young, and I never really got past the second page. That being said, I was surprised that I quite liked this film (although I definitely don't want to read the book, now that I know the plot). Ralph Fiennes works well as the tormented Heathcliff, and Juliette Binoche is quite good as Cathy-with-a-slight-French-accent. Most important, the costumes were really good (designed by James Acheson, who did Dangerous Liaisons) -- the first half of the movie is set in the 1780s, the second half in the 1800s. Lots of good stripey robes à l'anglaise. The only off bit was that Cathy the First's hairstyles were a bit off -- too hairspray-y and weird bangs.

See photos at juliettebinoche.fr.

My rating:  3(out of 5)

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Last revised 11 March 2008.
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