démodé
adjective: old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French,
the past participle of démoder "to go out of fashion,"
from mode "fashion"].
rococo/georgian (18th century) films
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rococo/georgian FILMS (18TH CENTURY)
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ABDUCTION CLUB (2002)
This was surprisingly Not Bad, given the fact that it was
released in the UK in 2002 and never made its way to the US.
Sophia Myles stars as one of two sisters kidnapped by members
of the Abduction Club, younger sons who in 1780s Ireland
couldn't get wives via the conventional method given their
lack of fortune. It's definitely teenybopper-y and no Grand
Drama, but it's certainly harmless. The costuming was
relatively nice, although many of the female characters wore
what I would consider undress in public way too often. Only on
DVD in the UK.
See photos at Absolutely Sophia Myles.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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AFFAIR OF THE NECKLACE (2001)
This is a tough one to review because you HAVE TO SEE IT because
the costumes are THAT GOOD, but unfortunately the film falls short
of its aims. Hilary Swank seems out of place in a period
piece as does the male lead, and the story is difficult to follow
and played as awfully melodramatic. However, that doesn't
detract from the FABULOUS COSTUMES, and Joely Richardson is quite
good as Marie Antoinette.
See photos at Rotten Tomatoes, and the official
site.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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AMAZING GRACE (2006)
Nicely made, but very conventional heroic biopic, about William Wilberforce, the British politician who in the 1790s-1800s led the fight to abolish slavery. It helps that Ioan Gruffudd is so pretty to look at, and Romola Garai as his fiance/wife has GREAT late 18th c. costumes and wigs (altho her makeup was very modern leading lady in my opinion).
See photos at RomolaFan.com.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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ARISTOCRATS (1999)
This miniseries falls into the trap, shared by many movies about
real historical personages, of trying to cover too much in too
little time. The story is about four aristocratic sisters
in mid- to late-1700s England. Unfortunately there are definite
age differences between the sisters, which means that we jump
around trying to follow all four throughout their lives.
The usually great Jodhi May seems miscast in her role as Lady
Sarah Lennox, although Geraldine Somerville and Anne-Marie Duff
are (as always) fabulous. The upside? GORGEOUS costuming.
It's worth sitting through (it's not THAT bad) for the costumes
alone.
See photos at a Japanese public television site.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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BROTHERHOOD OF THE WOLF (2001)
[Released as Les Pacte des Loups in France] Although
this film is set in the later 1700s, it's not really what I would
called a "costume movie" in that the few female characters
don't get much screen time. Nonetheless, it's a fun movie
that mixes gothy/horror, martial arts, and period drama.
In French.
See photos at IMDB and Rotten Tomatoes.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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CASANOVA (2005)
David Tennant stars as the famous lover Casanova in this BBC
miniseries while Peter O'Toole plays his older self, Laura Fraser
plays Casanova's love interest Henriette, and Rose Byrne is the
chambermaid to whom the O'Toole Casanova tells his life story.
Whew! Although it's a period film (set in 18th c. Venice,
Paris, London and Naples), it's very modernized, both in its
script, shooting style, and particularly the costumes -- which
range from relatively period (altho they appear to have had a
small budget -- Henriette wears the same red gown for years) to
completely not-based-in-reality goth-ified costumes (if you're
shocked when they arrive in Paris, just wait until they get to
Naples!).
See photos at the BBC and Rose Connection (use Bug
Me Not to bypass registration).
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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CASANOVA (2005)
Heath Ledger stars as Casanova with Sienna Miller as the true
love to whom he has to prove himself. Eh. It was
mildly entertaining, but not overwhelmingly so. Heath was
relatively good as the charming version of Casanova (when they let
him be), but this movie suffers from my issue with all Casanova
adaptations: what is interesting about Casanova is in fact
the fact that he's a seducer and a rake! Even the BBC
version (above) suffered from this problem, altho not as much as
this feature: we aren't paying our $10 to see Casanova learn
about true love and try to prove that he can be constant!
We're paying to see Casanova BE Casanova! Anyway.
Sienna Miller is miscast in this, as she's just not a period
actress (she reads too modern) and her brown wigs were DOWDY.
There was a cute subplot with Lena Olin as Miller's mom which I
won't give away. Worth a watch, but doesn't bear repeating.
The costumes were very middling -- no sack back gowns to be seen
at all, Miller and Olin in bad wigs (Olin's was SHINY PLASTICY
platinum blond!), really nothing I went "oooo!" at.
See photos at IMDB.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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THE CLANDESTINE
MARRIAGE (1999)
eek! I watched this about 6 months ago and completely
can't remember it! As I recall it was mildly entertaining,
but obviously not memorable. I do remember being surprised
that it wasn't horrible, so that's something. Sorry about
the lame review, but since I'm not going to watch it again, this
is the best we're going to get. I'm remembering some weird
fabric choices in the costumes...
See photos at CinemasOnline.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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DANGEROUS LIAISONS (1988)
The beginning, middle, and end of all 18th century costume movies.
The plot has taken a while to grow on me, being somewhat dark
and tragic (I don't want to give anything away for those few who
haven't seen it), but over time the fabulous acting has made me
enjoy the plot as much as the costumes. DROP DEAD GORGEOUS
1770s-ish costuming, with a fabulous sequence at the beginning
where Glenn Close and John Malkovich's characters are dressed,
allowing you to see the underpinnings and technology behind 18th
century clothing. Keanu Reeves isn't TOO painful, and the
rest of the cast is great.
See photos at Queen Anne's Dangerous Liaisons page and Eras of Elegance.
My rating: 5 (out of 5) |
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FELICITY: AN
AMERICAN GIRL ADVENTURE (2005)
I admit it, I loved this (in a made-for-TV-movie/Hallmark sort
of way!). A sweet story (based on the American Girl doll
series) of a young girl's coming of age in revolutionary America.
Marcia Gay Harden is particularly good as her mother. Nice
costumes, definitely referencing the doll, and I even teared up at
one point.
See photos at the official site.
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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HISTORY OF TOM JONES, A FOUNDLING
(1997)
Another BBC miniseries, which will tell you right off that it's
good. Set in probably the 1750s, it's interesting in that
it portrays an earlier time period than is usually shown in 18th
century costume movies. This is the classic Henry Fielding
tale of Tom Jones, a bit of a rake and a bit of an adventurer,
but really just a Good Guy. Lots of beautiful gowns with
cuffs rather than sleeve ruffles (earlier style) on Samantha Morton
and the other female leads. Definitely played for comedy
-- some actors hit it right, like Aunt Western, and some go a
bit over the top, like Squire Allworthy.
See photos at the Samantha Morton Lowdown.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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A HARLOT'S PROGRESS (2006)
UK TV drama about the artist William Hogarth and his relationship with the woman who inspired his series of drawings of the same name. I quite liked this - very gritty and realisitic in a not-too-over-the-top way, with some interesting modern touches. The costumes were very well done; women's costumes ranged from the harlot (first poor, then well off and trashy) to Hogarth's wife (very bourgeois).
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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THE INCREDIBLE JOURNEY OF MARY BRYANT (2005)
The story of Mary Bryant, one of the first group of British prisoners sent to the penal colony at Botany Bay (Australia), her life and her attemps to escape (I won't tell you how it all shakes out!). Really entertaining, dramatic story that has obviously been beefed up but is still well done. Romola Garai as Mary spends most of the film in rags, but during one period she's more nicely dressed and hanging out with society, and the costumes, wigs, and makeup are GREAT (altho Romola herself is in suspiciously restrained hair/makeup - keep your eye on the supporting characters/extras for more accurate costuming).
See photos at Capturing Romola and RomolaFan.com.
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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JEFFERSON IN PARIS (1995)
Another mixed bag -- it's a Merchant/Ivory production, which
in itself should be enough recommendation. The plot centers
on Thomas Jefferson's (Nick Nolte) time in Paris, where he becomes
entangled with a married woman (Greta Scaachi as Maria Cosway)
and then one of his slaves (Thandie Newton as Sally Hemmings,
who Jefferson would go on to have many children with), while juggling
his relationship with his daughter (Gwyneth Paltrow). I
rather enjoy the first half, which focuses on the Jefferson/Cosway/Patsy
Jefferson triangle, but when the film tries to address the Jefferson/Hemmings
relationship and the complicated issues surrounding slavery, it
just doesn't do it justice -- this relationship probably needs
to be the focus of its own film (or many films!) to really fully
explore it. Nonetheless, Nolte is not as painful as you'd
think as Jefferson, Scaachi and Newton are (as always) mesmerizing,
and Gwyneth Paltrow gives one of my favorite of her performances.
AND THE COSTUMES ARE FABULOUS, FABULOUS, FABULOUS.
See photos at merchantivory.com and IMDB.
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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LAST OF THE MOHICANS (1992)
Okay, a lot of people have problems with this movie based on
its somewhat cavalier attempt (adapted from the very romanticized
book) at exploring ethnic conflict/relationships between English/American
colonists and Native Americans. But nonetheless, I have
to say that it works for me on a shlocky-romantic-"I will
find you!"-as-Madeleine-Stowe-is-being-captured sort of way.
Daniel Day-Lewis, who is either outstanding or annoying, veers
between both in this film. Madeleine Stowe works quite well
as the daughter of the English general who falls in love with
Day-Lewis's character (who is an English/American who has been
raised by Native Americans). Jodhi May is mesmerizing as
Stowe's younger sister, and the early scenes show the two sisters
in some great 1750s or '60s gowns.
See photos at dd-l.net, and coolmoviestuff.com.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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THE LADY AND THE DUKE (2001)
(Released as "L'Anglaise et le Duc" in France) The next time I wait far too long to see a really good costume
movie, slap me, will you?! This was AMAZING! It tells
the story of Grace Elliott, Englishwoman and former mistress to
the Prince of Wales, who has long since settled in Paris. She
was once the mistress of the Duc d'Orleans; they are now just
really good friends. The movie details her life, and her
relationship with the Duc, throughout the course of the French
Revolution. Not only are the costumes STUNNING, but all of
the outdoor scenes feature the actors digitally inserted into
period paintings. Just amazing. In French.
See photos at IMDB and the official site (click on "Stills and Clips").
My rating: 5 (out of 5) |
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MADNESS OF KING GEORGE (1994)
Explores the first (of many) periods of mental illness of King
George III of England. Great acting by Nigel Hawthorne as
the king and Helen Mirren as the queen. This is a sad yet
amusing story of the machinations among the royals and government,
and the relationship between George and Queen Charlotte.
Really great costuming, although you don't see quite as much as
you'd like as George is sequestered from his family for part of
the story. Keep your eye on Mirren/Charlotte for great court
gowns, and on Amanda Donohoe as a lady in waiting and Caroline
Harker as Mrs. Fitzherbert (the unofficial wife of the Prince
of Wales) for more fashion-forward outfits.
See photos at MGM and the Amanda Donohoe Appreciation Site.
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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MARIE ANTOINETTE (2006)
Wow wow wow. I haven't seen a more perfect movie in YEARS. I really just had an emotional reaction to it -- I'm pretty much in awe.
I've heard Coppola and Dunst speak of it as an "emotional portrait," and I think that's really apt and the movie really succeeds on this level. I'm sure it helps that I've read bios of MA and studied the history of 18th c. Europe, so I was able to fill in the blanks around the film. I'm not sure you'd need that background to appreciate the film, but I think it's useful to really get why the French Revolution happened and why MA ended up as she did, as the film doesn't go into this.
What I liked the most was the tone and emotional feel. On the one hand, it was a gorgeous, languid portrayal of MA's life. I really got a feel for what it would have felt like to live in Versailles, and/or as an 18th century aristocrat. The sense of luxury, frivolity, and beauty filled every scene. At the same time, it really brought home what it might have felt like to live with such protocol (the lever [the public dressing], being watched as you ate, etc.). While I'm sure not every detail was perfect, and I'm sure there were elements omitted or changed, it really brought home the feeling of that world to me.
The focus of the movie on Versailles helped me to understand something I hadn't really gotten before. Although MA was frivolous, she really did fulfill the role she was presented -- she eventually made her marriage successful, she artfully negotiated Versailles (her world, as opposed to the larger world of France), and she became a queen. Unfortunately for her, she did so at a time that the larger world was changing, trends that had begun in the 1740s or 50s with the early elements of the Enlightenment; and she did so at a time when Louis XV and XVI were not being the best financial managers for France. I recently read a biography of Mme de Pompadour that talked about the tradition in France of reviling the King's mistress, who was thought of as an evil influence, too decadent, etc. Louis XVI was the first king in forever to not have a mistress; as such, the public hatred and scapegoating that was usually placed on the royal mistress went to the Queen (who was usually a background figure in earlier reigns). Add all that with a bread famine, and you've got MA in the wrong place at the wrong time.
However, the film didn't (to me -- not sure how the average American would take it) present MA as "just a girl," as many of us feared. I do think it showed her as being trained and conscious of her role in society and politics. Except for a few bits of dialogue around court ceremony (which were understandable given she came from a slightly less formal court), she wasn't presented as chafing at her role. It did do a good job illustrating her changing termperment as she aged and had children and became interested in living a more "natural" (in the 18th c. Enlightenment idea of the term) life, but not as some "she's just a girl like you or me!"
Of course, there were certain elements that weren't 100% accurate -- whether or not she was interested in politics, MA was much more aware of her political responsibility (esp. vis a vis her responsibilities towards Austria) than the film portrayed. And they didn't age Dunst's face to match MA's aging (she really showed her stress in her looks; as soon as the revolution started, she apparently aged very quickly -- lost a ton of weight, hair went white, etc.). And the film was consciously taking an artistic bent, obviously in terms of music but also costumes, dialogue etc. But personally, I'm okay with that. The reality is that there are very few filmmakers interested in faithfully recreating history. While some may wish for that, if it wasn't the filmmaker's goal, I think as an audience member we can chose to say "It's not aiming to be accurate, I'm not interested" or let it go and evaluate it on its own terms. Which I did, and I LOVED LOVED LOVED it.
And the costumes. Oh, the costumes. You could have eaten them with a spoon! Again, certain elements were changed for artistic license (esp. the shoes), but they were all GORGEOUS. Except for Dunst's marriage dress, which didn't really grab me, and du Barry's weird gowns, it was all ravishing. They really got the color palette right, with every gown looking like some kind of pastry. Beautiful, heavy silks; gorgeous hats; just all amazing. I loved the sacques, of course, and anglaises, but most especially: the blue anglaise with the zone bodice (the one we've seen 100 pics of online), the chemise gowns (gorgeously cut and not shlumpy at all!), the pale pale green redingote MA wears for all of 2 quick scenes (I think I may have to make this one -- turned back collar, closed in front with like 3 sets of metal buttons on each side); and the very 1790s redingote (double breasted, big collar, big pointy-crowned hat) worn by Polignac as she is leaving Versailles.
I loved it so much, I could really go watch it again right now. Oh, and I wanted to recommend that you read Roger Ebert's review -- I'm pretty much right there with him on all of his points.
See pictures at Kirsten Images, Rose
Connection (use Bug Me Not to bypass registration on both), and the Costumer's Guide
to Movie Costumes.
My rating: 10 (out of 5) |
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MARY SHELLEY'S FRANKENSTEIN
(1994)
Too dark of a tale for my tastes, but that's just me. Obviously
Mary Shelley had some REAL issues with that whole Scientific Revolution
thang. Kenneth Branagh is great as Victor Frankenstein,
Helena Bonham Carter great as his love interest -- de Niro is
"eh" (that's a so/so noise) as the monster. Carter
gets some great gowns, although they're definitely Hollywood-ized...
but too much of the story (for me) focuses on the really dark
aspects of the story (I know, that's what it's about) for me to
enjoy it. Rent it and fast forward through the non-HBC scenes.
See photos at CosProp.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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ORLANDO (1992)
A beautiful film that suffers a bit from a story that doesn't
translate terribly well to film. The story spans four centuries,
from the Elizabethan era to the present day. The costumes
are absolutely breathtaking -- I would happily kill for the title
character's white sack-back gown with huuuuuge paniers.
See photos at a fan site.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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THE PATRIOT (2000)
Mel Gibson as "the patriot" -- what more need we say?
A definite Hollywood-ized view of the American Revolution, complete
with costumes that are good but have weird things wrong with them.
What's with Joely Richardson running around in her undies?
See photos at IMDB, Rotten Tomatoes, and FIDM.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN (2003)
Positives: Johnny Depp (yummy) playing Hunter S. Thompson
as pirate (see Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas for the REAL
deal), Orlando Bloom (yum), Keira Knightley in some good (but
Hollywood-ized) 1770s-ish gowns, based on my favorite Disneyland
ride! Negatives: Geoffrey Rush doing that stupid Geoffrey
Rush thing he does in every movie, Keira Knightley complaining
OVER and OVER about her stupid corset (as though she wouldn't
have been wearing a corset every day since she was about 6ish).
Still fun nonetheless.
See photos at the Costumer's
Guide to Movie Costumes, IMDB, Rotten Tomatoes, KeiraKnightley.com, FIDM, Eras of Elegance, and Walking in Daydreams.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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PLUNKETT AND MACLEANE
(1999)
It's been a long while since I saw this tale of 18th century
aristocratic (and not so aristocratic) robbers. As I recall
it was pretty slight, although visually interesting -- the costumes
are definitely interesting but goth-ized.
See photos at the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes, movieweb.com, LivTylerWebSite.com, and LovelyLivTyler.com.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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RIDICULE (1996)
The plot -- about a country aristocrat who comes to court to
try to gain royal favor for improvements on his estate, and who
becomes entangled with a lady of the court (Fanny Ardant) and
falls in love -- is good but not great. Interesting costuming
that's not 100% accurate but pretty nonetheless. In French.
See photos at IMDB and Fanny Ardant Online.
My rating: 3 (out of 5) |
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SCARLET
PIMPERNEL (1999)
This BBC miniseries stars Richard E. Grant as the title
character and Elizabeth McGovern as his French-born wife.
Mildly entertaining but not overly so -- I've heard the Jane
Seymour film version is much better. Grant has the
necessary swashbuckly-ness required for the role, but there's
just something very small-scale about everything else. The
costumes are weird -- most of the supporting characters are
dressed very nicely (particularly Emilia Fox), but McGovern as
the lead female is in REALLY badly fitted anglaise dresses,
particularly around the weird necklines. She does wear a
really good redingote in the last episode, however.
See photos at Blakeney
Manor.
My rating: 2.5 (out of 5) |
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SLEEPY HOLLOW (1999)
Already a classic -- Tim Burton's retelling with Johnny Depp
as Ichabod Crane Girl Detective (Depp's words, not mine!) and
Christina Ricci as Katrina von Tassel. Great story, great
acting, a bit over-the-top ending but hey what are you gonna do.
The costuming is gorgeous if very Hollywood-ized and goth-ized
-- they got the silhouettes and cut of the gowns right, but the
fabric choices and aesthetics are very modern and goth-y (appropriately
so). I LOVE Ricci's black & white striped dress (you're
surprised, aren't you?).
See photos at the Costumer's
Guide to Movie Costumes, IMDB, and FIDM.
My rating: 5 (out of 5) |
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TRISTRAM SHANDY: A COCK AND
BULL STORY (2005)
A movie within a movie, based on a book within a book
(published in the 1740s). It sort of tells the story of
Tristram Shandy, but it focuses even more on the cast and crew who
are making the film. However, it's not a documentary, and
the modern bits are highly entertaining (plus it's a who's who of
British actors). But be warned that about 2/3 focuses on the
cast/crew, and only about 1/3 on the period story. Anyway!
Nice costumes, especially for the guys; the women's costumes are
limited (altho Gillian Anderson wears a great dark green francaise).
See photos at IMDB and the official site (click on "Tristram pix").
My rating: 4 (out of 5) |
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TRIUMPH OF LOVE (2001)
I always worry when movies like this either come and go or are
just straight to video/DVD (not sure which is the case on this
film). The story is adapted from an 18th century play and
is very Shakespeare comedy-ish -- four characters who are variously
in love with one another and (of course!) lots of mistaken identity,
cross-dressing, etc. Mira Sorvino is a bit out of her depth
but looks good, Ben Kingsley is quite good, and Fiona Shaw (as
Kingsley's sister) is great as always. Worth a rental but
don't be expecting another Dangerous Liaisons. The costumes
were fine but nothing to write home about.
See photos at IMDB.
My rating: 2 (out of 5) |
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VALMONT (1989)
Okay, I have to confess that I hadn't seen this movie in about
10 years, rented it about a year ago and didn't even make it halfway
through. On the one hand, that means I can't really review
it, but on the other it tells you something. Pretty lackluster
adaptation of Dangerous Liaisons -- rent it if you're REALLY into
Colin Firth. It looks like the costumer A) had only a vague
idea what s/he was doing and B) had about a $10 budget.
See photos at Queen Anne's Dangerous Liaisons page.
My rating: 1 (out of 5) |
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WUTHERING HEIGHTS (1992)
First, I have to confess that although I love Jane Eyre,
I'm not really a fan of gothic. I tried to read this book a number
of times when I was young, and I never really got past the second
page. That being said, I was surprised that I quite liked this
film (although I definitely don't want to read the book, now that
I know the plot). Ralph Fiennes works well as the tormented Heathcliff,
and Juliette Binoche is quite good as Cathy-with-a-slight-French-accent.
Most important, the costumes were really good (designed by James
Acheson, who did Dangerous Liaisons) -- the first half of the
movie is set in the 1780s, the second half in the 1800s. Lots
of good stripey robes à l'anglaise. The only off bit was
that Cathy the First's hairstyles were a bit off -- too hairspray-y
and weird bangs.
See photos at juliettebinoche.fr.
My rating: 3(out of 5) |
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