démodé

adjective: old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French, the past participle of démoder "to go out of fashion," from mode "fashion"].

costume in cinema

 

REGENCY/EMPIRE/FEDERAL (EARLY 19th century) films


REGENCY/EMPIRE/FEDERAL FILMS (EARLY 19TH CENTURY)

BEAU BRUMMELL: THIS CHARMING MAN (2006)

James Purefoy is hot hot hot, and he is even hotter as the dapper Beau Brummell, male fashion leader of the English Regency. Sadly, this film underwhelms, mostly because of a meandering plot that never seems to hit its stride, and what appeared to be too small a budget for the appropriate number of extras and locations. The men's costuming, as you might guess, is REALLY nicely done; the women's is a snooze, with the few female characters wearing the same thing over and over.

See photos at the BBC and JamesPurefoy.us.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

 
     

BECOMING JANE (2007)

Shockingly, I actually really quite liked this - so long as I ignored the fact that the main character -- a Regency-era writer named Jane Austen -- had any relationship to the Jane Austen whose books I adore. The filmmakers took the few hints that exist about Jane's youthful flirtation with Tom Lefroy and turn it into a Big Passion, complete with lots of references to her later writings. I thought it was actually quite well done -- good acting, witty script, pretty to look at. All in all, it felt like I was watching a pretty good Austen adaptation, and that's saying something! Of course, it's pretty much a made up story and I'm not sure if Anne Hathaway is my idea of a young Jane Austen... The costumes ranged -- set in 1796, the costumer chose to put the actors in a mishmash of high-waisted "Regency" styles and long-waisted 1780s styles. It doesn't really work, because you can't tell if they're trying to distinguish between ages or classes (no rhyme or reason to who is wearing which style). Most of the high-waisted dresses are cut waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too narrow. I thought the 1780s style dresses, although incongrous, were very pretty and accurate to about 5-10 years earlier.

See photos at OutNow.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

BROTHERS GRIMM (2005)

Really not as bad as everyone's said!  It's definitely a Terry Gilliam movie, with the twisted humor that entails, and you can definitely tell that the studio hacked at the script and the editing.  Nonetheless, it's a spooky and silly tale of the famous fairytale collectors reimagined as supernatural Nancy Drews.  The costumes are fab, most especially Monica Belluci as an evil queen.  The film is set in the Napoleonic era, and costumer Gabriella Pescucci (always wonderful) does a great job of creating convincing lower class wear that is suitably influenced by the high waistlines etc. of the era.

See photos at About.com and the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

COUNT OF MONTE CRISTO (2002)

Not really worth watching -- it just doesn't work.  I did manage to make it all the way through to the end, but it really wasn't worth my time.  None of the performances are outstanding, the plot (as adapted) never really grabbed me, and the costuming was uninteresting.

See photos at IMDB and Rotten Tomatoes.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

     

EMMA (1996)

A very Hollywood Austen adaptation, the least on-target in terms of feel.  Gwyneth Paltrow looks good as the title character, although I don't like her performance at ALL as much as I like Kate Beckinsale in the BBC version.  The costuming is VERY mishmash "Regency-esque."  The only real outstanding notes are Greta Scaachi (always fabulous), and Jeremy Northam makes a more dashing and handsome Mr. Knightley than Mark Strong in the BBC version (of course, Strong is probably a lot closer to Austen's writing the character).

See photos at Eras of Elegance and the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

EMPEROR'S NEW CLOTHES (2001)

Rented it, stuck it on the DVD player, and then kept miraculously finding something to do in another room.  It was that riveting.  Can't even tell you about the costumes -- sorry!  Boring!

See photos at IMDB.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

IMMORTAL BELOVED (1994)

Good but not great story of Beethoven and his "immortal beloved(s)."  Gary Oldman definitely gives a great performance as the composer, but the movie just didn't pull me in as it should.  Interesting costuming -- more upper class Regency than we usually see in Austen-type movies, good fabrics etc.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

INTERVIEW WITH THE VAMPIRE (1994)

Another so/so movie.  Tom Cruise is WAY out of his league as the vampire Lestat, Brad Pitt works but only barely -- see it instead for Kirsten Dunst in her most amazing role ever as Claudia, the child vampire.  The story begins in the 1790s, then moves to the 1870s or 1880s and then the present day.  Claudia's gowns in the 19th century period are amazing, as are her "friend" Madeleine's (I would happily kill for Madeleine's green dress).

See photos at Kirsten Candy (use Bug Me Not to bypass registration).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

JANE AUSTEN'S EMMA (1997)

MILES better than the Gwynnie feature film version, Kate Beckinsale really nails the role of Emma as well as having some darn good hats.  The rest of the cast is equally fabulous, and the costuming is just as near to perfect as you can get.  Fun, funny, romantic, Austen -- what's not to like?

See photos at the Samantha Morton Lowdown, Eras of Elegance, and the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

MANSFIELD PARK (1999)

The only "off" Austen adaptation of the 1990s, mostly because of changes from the tone/story of the original book, some of which succeed and some of which don't.  I like the incorporation of Jane Austen's juvenile writings and the spunk-ification of Fanny (probably one of the most retiring of Austen's characters, although readers of the book will understand that that has a purpose missed in this film), but didn't enjoy the attempts to make the movie darker and more erotic than the book.  The costuming is definitely Hollywood-ized, with Fanny in weird jumper/shirt combinations that I've never seen in the period and Mary Crawford in VERY modern fabrics/cuts.  Maria and Julia Bertram (played by the fabulous Justine Waddell) get some great gowns, however, and there's a great appearance by the VERY fabulous Sophia Myles as Fanny's younger sister.

See photos at Absolutely Sophia Myles, movieweb.com, a fan site, another fan site, Andrea Galer's (costume designer) site, Pandora's Shadowy Glen, Eras of Elegance, and FIDM.

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

MANSFIELD PARK (2007)

One of three ITV Jane Austen adaptations from 2007, this production attempts to be more modern and relevant (a la the Kiera Knightly Pride & Prejudice) -- and, predictably, fails as a result. Billie Piper is a giggy, spunky Fanny very unlike the novel's character (who, granted, is the hardest of the Austen heroines to get imho); the story is changed around a decent amount with some just plain weird choices (a picnic instead of a ball for Fanny's birthday [why?], Fanny being left behind at Mansfield instead of sent home, etc.). The costuming is all over the place, with some semi-decent and even interesting gowns -- but a lot of really bad ones. Mrs. Norris and Lady Bertram wear very 1780s-style gowns in the early "young Fanny" scenes, but look exactly same in the later "adult Fanny" era. Many of the women wear evening gowns during the day; and even dresses that I really liked (like Maria's stripey wedding outfit) are offset by having modern fitting to them. Fanny wears a total mishmash, often in 1790s-esque gowns (cone shaped V front bodices with the short 1790s waistline) -- I assume to show that she's wearing old dresses, but wow - should Fanny have that much cleavage? And her hair - oh god, her hair.

It wasn't BAD per se as a film to watch, but it wasn't good as an Austen adaptation and I have to say the 1999 feature film (which has a lot of problems!) is better.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

MASTER AND COMMANDER: THE FAR SIDE OF THE WORLD (2003)

Not only a great, exciting, adventurous story with engaging characters and relationships, but incredibly gritty, realistic, as darn near 100% historically accurate costumes, props, art direction, set design, etc.  All boys, though.  Pity!

See photos at IMDB and FIDM.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

MISS AUSTEN REGRETS (2008)

Tells the fictionalized story of Jane Austen's last period of her life as she deals with romantic regrets and the implications of her choice to be a writer, with Olivia Williams as the title character. I loved the story, acting and casting, and found it to be very emotionally moving. Sadly, the costumes (by the same designer who did many of the 2007/08 ITV productions) was SO boring and samey in all of these productions, this one included. While the costumes weren't ugly or inauthentic, they were a big zzzzzzzz.

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

NORTHANGER ABBEY (2007)

One of three ITV (UK TV) Austen adaptations, I liked this one the best, probably because the only thing I can compare it with is the 1986 version reviewed below. Felicity Jones worked really well as Catherine, and I loooooved JJ Field as the charming Henry Tilney (swoon)! Almost all of the casting worked really well. There were a few off notes, such as Isabella Thorpe REALLY flirting, in a very sexual way, with some men at the pump rooms which had me raising my eyebrows; and there was a bit too much of Catherine saying, "Northanger Abbey?" in a wide-eyed "Who me?" sort of way, but I liked it nonetheless! The costuming was quite nice, from what I remember (need to rewatch it to refresh my memory!).

My rating:  4 (out of 5)

     

NORTHANGER ABBEY (1986)

I really wish someone would do an updated (film) version of this Austen book -- it's the only one not to be remade in the 1990s, so we're stuck with this BBC miniseries version.  It's unfortunately pretty dated looking, the actress who plays Catherine never really yanks my chain, and it's over-the-top in its interpretations of Catherine's horror novel reading-inspired fantasies.  Worth a watch, but barely.

See photos at the Museum of Costume.

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

NAPOLEON (2002)

Pretty darn terrible, except for the genius casting of Isabella Rossellini as Josephine.  She looks great but doesn't get enough screen time.  The rest is very tv movie of the week.

See photos at the official site.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

PANDAEMONIUM (2000)

Pretty bad, even with such a great cast as Samantha Morton, Linus Roache, and John Hannah.  The story is about English poets Coleridge and Wordsworth with lots of opium addiction and general betrayal and despair.

See photos at the Samantha Morton Lowdown (additional pics here) and Tribute to Linus Roache.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

PERSUASION (1995)

Hands down my favorite Austen film -- this just gets it RIGHT in terms of character, mood/tone, story, costumes, sets, everything.  GO SEE IT RIGHT NOW.  I never fail to cry at the big climax, Amanda Root and Ciaran Hinds are PERFECT as the lead characters, and it's just a joy to watch.  Notice especially how Mrs. Musgrove, when at home in the country, wears more 1780s-ish clothing (straight front corsets, longer waists), than the other characters or when she's in Bath.  I love touches like that!

See photos at IMDB, Eras of Elegance, and the official site.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

PERSUASION (2007)

A pretty darn decent adaptation of the Austen novel, which is impressive given that it's part of the ITV series. Sally Hawkins is great in the part of Anne, Rupert Penry-Jones is super hot and quite good at Capt. Wentworth; the two look more the age of the main characters than the 1995 feature film's cast. Most of the rest of the cast is unremarkable, however. The story is compressed and feels like it rushes to the conclusion, and some plot points are changed unnecessarily. However, I have to say that this is (so far) the best of the ITV adaptations (I'll update this statement after I watch Northanger Abbey!).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE (2005)

Oh my.  Well.  Hmm.  The good?  Rosalind Pike as Jane is perfect, both in looks and acting.  Finally they got that Jane is prettier, which makes the rest of plot make so much more sense!  Partially because his character is written so well, but also because he's a great actor, I loved Tom Hollander as Mr. Collins.  It was great fun to see a new take on the character, and his mannerism were just priceless.  Keira Knightley was cute in an if-I-scrunch-up-my-nose-will-you-like-me sort of way.  Rupert Friend as Wickham was hot hot hot in an Orlando Bloom sort of way.  And while the tone was different from the book, I have to admit I palpitated a bit at the first proposal-in-the-rain scene.  And Mr. Bingley was SO cute!  The bad?  Do we have enough room?  1. The desperate attempt to make the story seem relevant does not explain the sad lack of manners and decent hairstyles, the constant mud pit/pig shots, nor Keira/Elizabeth's homespun gowns.  2. Elizabeth Showed Up At Netherfield Park With Her Hair Down!!  3. WTF was Caroline Bingley wearing at the assembly and Netherfield ball scenes - her slip?  4. Sorry, Matthew MacFadyen is homely and sallow, altho his sad Mr. Darcy interpretation was kind of cute.  5. The need to constantly hit us over the head with what should be unspoken themes really grated -- ie "Jane is just shy!" and "I'm afraid I'll be a spinster, so don't you judge me!"  The whole point of Austen's era, and the joy of reading the books/watching the adaptations, is that THINGS ARE NOT DISCUSSED the way they are now.  If they were, there'd be no story!  Elizabeth and Darcy would have one knock down fight, everything would come out, they'd live happily ever after!  6. What was with the running around in nighties in the pre-dawn, with psychic Mr. Darcy striding across the field ready to enfold Lizzie in his manly arms?  7. Yes one must cut out/compress unnecessary plot bits to fit ye olde movie time limit, but establishing Wickham as a viable love interest for Elizabeth, and the full implications of Lydia's elopement, are MAJOR PLOT POINTS.  They should not be skipped in order to make room for more pig/mud shots!  The costumes?  A mixed bag.  Some were very nice, esp. the 18th c. style corsets still worn in the 1790s.  But most of the Bennets looked like charwomen (could Mr. Bennet not afford a razor?), and see above re: Caroline Bingley and Elizabeth/homespun princess.  I did like seeing the 1780s styles on Mrs. Bennet and Lady Catherine.

See photos at a Keira Knightley Wavefront, the official site, FIDM, Eras of Elegance, and Walking in Daydreams.

My rating:  2 (out of 5) (but watch it just to have fun snarking!)

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE (1995)

What can be said that hasn't been said?  The cause of Austen mania, Darcy mania, Colin Firth mania, Regency mania -- it's all right here.  I borrowed the VHS from a friend in the midst of packing to move, expecting to put it on in the background -- needless to say I spent 6 hours (or whatever) sitting on the hardwood floor of my empty living room just RIVETED.  I can watch this over and over for it's fabulously fun and romantic story line -- and the COSTUMES!  HELLO!  Aside from too many low necklines during the day and some definite choices about which characters wear which types of gowns/fabrics, it's OUTSTANDING.

See photos at Eras of Elegance, a fan site and the Pride & Prejudice Photo Album.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

PRIDE AND PREJUDICE (1980)

Okay, realize that this review comes from having watched the 1995 P&P Over and Over and Over. Surprisingly quite good! Elizabeth Garvie does a good job portraying Elizabeth's wit, Jane Bennet is appropriately pretty and sweet, and the costumes (while nothing to get overly excited about) are fine. David Rintoul is, however, not the best Darcy - he does a good job seeming/looking pompous and conceited in the first half, but never really mellows -- and let's just say that his pants seem to fill out rather TOO well (what is a blushing, virginal Regency maid supposed to look at when there's such a view?).

My rating:  3 (out of 5)

     

QUILLS (2000)

I LOVE Kate Winslet, but this movie just made me want to stick a fork in my eye.  The story of the Marquis de Sade and his relationship with a maid in an insane asylum yadda yadda.  See it if you're interested in watching Winslet run around in a Really Period late 18th century corset for the entire movie (although I'm not sure I buy that her character couldn't afford SOME kind of dress), but beware -- it's a whole lot of Geoffrey Rush doing his Geoffrey Rush thing.

See photos at IMDB, DiscoverKate.com, and FIDM.

My rating:  1 (out of 5)

     

SENSE AND SENSIBILITY (1995)

Another favorite film of mine.  Emma Thompson's adaptation of Austen's book is hands down one of the best I've ever seen.  Really sad, touching, romantic, bittersweet story of two sisters and their families and loves.  And NO, it's NOT about Elinor Dashwood learning to express her emotions -- it's about Marianne Dashwood learning to moderate hers!  Kate Winslet is RIVETING as Marianne, Emma Thompson really nails the feeling of Elinor (even if the role was rewritten to make Elinor older) -- and the rest of the cast is fabulous too.  Great costumes set in the 1790s -- adapted a bit for a modern audience in that the skirts aren't quite as full as they could be, but still beautiful and an interesting look at a period that most films skip over.  Love the hats!

See photos at DiscoverKate.com and Eras of Elegance.

My rating:  5 (out of 5)

     

SENSE AND SENSIBILITY (1981)

It's hard not to compare this with the 1995 adaptation, which I've seen probably 200 times (all before viewing this one) -- apologies!  Overall, I enjoyed the storytelling -- the fact that it's a mini-series rather than a movie gave it room to include more characters and events than the movie, and it stays more faithful to Austen's original storyline.  It was nice to see Lady Middleton, Miss Steele, and Mrs. Ferrars included, although I did miss Margaret.  I preferred some of the characterizations as well, especially Edward Dashwood -- much more convincing as a shy but good man, and somehow it was more clear why Elinor fell in love with him -- and Colonel Brandon, helpfully looking his proper age of 35ish as opposed to Alan Rickman's totally unconvincing late 40s/early 50s.  On the other hand, I found Marianne to read as terribly young (more true to the age of her character in the book), but as such pretty darn irritating and unsympathetic -- the heartbreak I felt in Kate Winslet's portrayal just seemed like youthful melodramatics here.  On the whole I liked Irene Richard's portrayal of Elinor, although she could be rather one-note in some scenes.  Now, the costumes -- sorry kids, but they're VERY high school costume shop.  Lots of what looked like cotton broadcloth (probably wasn't, but that's what it looked like) and cheap synthetic glitzy bits on the more well-to-characters.  Nonetheless, worth a watch for Austen fans!

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

VANITY FAIR (1998)

Yet another I really tried to like but didn't (here's hoping the upcoming feature film does it better).  Natasha Little does well as Becky Sharp, but maybe it's because she's a somewhat unlikable heroine that it just didn't grab me.  Plus the music was WAY too heavy handed -- have your volume button ready!

My rating:  2 (out of 5)

     

VANITY FAIR (2004)

I agree with every other costumer's review that A) the costumes aren't terribly period (colors too bright and too Indian-influenced, too many dresses cut in similar styles, etc.) B) the hairstyles aren't period (very 1830s in my opinion) and C) they changed the main character of Becky Sharp from conniving to plucky. All that being said, as one who has never read the original source material and didn't really care for the 1998 adaptation (see above), I quite enjoyed this! I liked the pluck-ification of Sharp and felt Reese Witherspoon did an excellent job of playing the character as written, and although the costumes weren't 100% accurate, I really enjoyed the beautiful taffetas and jewel-toned colors. If you're not too attached to the book, go ahead and have a guilty pleasure.

Update: Okay, okay. Now that I've read the book (which was great!), you're right - they totally reinterpreted the character of Becky Sharp, as well as Rawdon.  Who cares, I still liked the movie (okay, some people care, but I still liked the movie!)

See photos at IMDB, FIDM, Capturing Romola, the official site (click on "Gallery"; note also the costume sketches/photos under "Behind the Scenes"), and the Costumer's Guide to Movie Costumes.

My rating: 4 (out of 5)

     

WUTHERING HEIGHTS (1992)

First, I have to confess that although I love Jane Eyre, I'm not really a fan of gothic. I tried to read this book a number of times when I was young, and I never really got past the second page. That being said, I was surprised that I quite liked this film (although I definitely don't want to read the book, now that I know the plot). Ralph Fiennes works well as the tormented Heathcliff, and Juliette Binoche is quite good as Cathy-with-a-slight-French-accent. Most important, the costumes were really good (designed by James Acheson, who did Dangerous Liaisons) -- the first half of the movie is set in the 1780s, the second half in the 1800s. Lots of good stripey robes à l'anglaise. The only off bit was that Cathy the First's hairstyles were a bit off -- too hairspray-y and weird bangs.

See photos at juliettebinoche.fr.

My rating:  3(out of 5)

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Last revised 11 March 2008.
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