démodé
adjective:
old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French, the past participle
of démoder "to go out of fashion," from mode "fashion"].
bustle era hairstyles, 1870-1889
early bustle period, 1870-1876
natural form period, 1877-1882
second bustle period, 1883-1889
how-to advice
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natural form period, 1877-1882
We begin the period with the long, loose, curly look, but as clothing
styles shift to the more form-fitting natural silhouette, hairstyles simplify
as well. By the end of the period, as we transition into the clean lines
of the second bustle period, the most common hairstyle includes a simple
bun at the nape of the neck with curly bangs.
1877
Hairstyles are beginning to see a shift -- the long, loose, curly look
is still in existence, but we see the advent of more severe hairstyles,
which have the front pulled straight back (often without a part) and comparatively
small buns or arrangements at the crown of the head. Short bangs are increasingly
acceptable for women of all ages.
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Day style: The front hair is pulled straight back into
a large knot or chignon that covers the crown and back of the
head. She has some kind of black ribbon that loops around her
hair twice.
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Day style: The front is pulled straight back (no part)
into a bun or curls at the crown of the head. Small wispy bits
at the front hairline and nape of the neck.
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Day style: The hair is parted in the center, where it
is pulled back smoothly behind the ears to a bun at the crown
of the head. No bangs.
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Day style: The hair is pulled straight up to the crown,
where it is arranged in a bun or chignon. Short, curled bangs.
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Day (possibly evening?) style: An example of the longer,
looser style. The hair is pulled up smoothly to the crown, where
it is arranged in large curls. Short curly bangs in front. Long
ringlets at the nape of the neck.
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Day style: Most of the back hair is covered by a large
floral and ribbon arrangement, with a large braid that is looped
up and allowed to hang past the nape of the neck.
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Day style: The hair is parted in the center, pulled back
smoothly behind the ears and arranged into a simple knot at the
back of the head. Longer, curly bangs.
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Day (?) style: The hair is pulled back to the crown of
the head, where it is arranged in a large knot. Longer, curly
bangs and short curls at the nape of the neck. Some kind of ribbon
or jewelled band encircles the knot.
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Day style: The hair is pulled back smoothly (possibly
with a side part?), and arranged in a large chignon on the crown
of the head. Short, curly bangs.
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1878
The long, loose, curly look is increasingly passé. Lots of bangs
(which are getting a bit longer), smoothly pulled back hair, and buns
or knots at the crown or, increasingly, the nape of the neck (a style
popularized by Lily Langtry).
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Day style: The hair is parted in the center and probably
arranged in a bun low just above the nape of the neck. Very very
tiny wispy bangs.
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Day style: The hair is curled, pulled back smoothly, and
arranged at the crown of the head (her hat sits on top of this
arrangement). Short, curly bangs in front. Note the abscence of
curls at the nape of the neck.
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Day style: The hair is curled, pulled back smoothly, and
arranged in a low, looped braid. Short, curly bangs.
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Day style: The hair is waved or curled, then pulled back
from the front up towards the crown. There is probably an arrangement
at the crown and then ringlets at the nape of the neck. Short,
curly bangs in front.
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Day style: An artistic interpretation. The hair is waved,
parted in the center, and then pulled back behind the ears up
to the crown. The hair at the crown is arranged in curls. Hair
from the back is left long and wavy -- definitely either artistic
license or an at-home style. Possibly some short, curly bangs.
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Day style: Center part, hair pulled back smoothly behind
the ears to a low bun. Short, curly bangs.
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Day style: The hair is waved, pulled back to the crown,
and then arranged in a looped braid. Note that this braid only
goes to the nape of the neck, as opposed to earlier styles which
hung down past the shoulders. Curly bangs.
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Evening style: The hair is curled, pulled up to the crown,
and arranged in a knot or curls accented with flowers. Longer,
curly bangs
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Day style: This lady has waved her hair, then pulled it
up to the crown into a simple bun. Curly bangs.
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Day style: Princess Alice has probably parted her hair
in the center, then pulled it back smoothly to a low braided arrangement
at the nape of her neck. Short curly bangs.
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Day style: Lily Langtry, one of the major trendsetters
of the new simplified hairstyles. Her hair is waved and pulled
back into a low bun at the nape of her neck. Short curly bangs.
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1879
The long, loose, curly styles are almost nearly gone.
Simple hairstyles with small buns at the nape of the neck and curly
bangs are nearly ubiquitous.
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Day style: Another painting of Lily Langtry, who again
wears her hair waved, with a low bun at the nape of the neck
and short, curly bangs.
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Day style: The hair is waved, parted center front, and
arranged in a simple bun at the nape of the neck. Short, curly
bangs.
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Evening style: Here we see what is probably the back
of the hairstyle below (same artist, appears to be the same
model). The hair is left straight, parted center front, and
arranged in a low roll that begins behind the ear and down to
the nape of the neck.
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Evening style: This is probably the front of the style
above (same artist, appears to be the same model). The hair
is straight, with a short part at center front. The back hair
is arranged in a roll that begins behind the ears, down to the
nape of the neck. Very short, straight bangs.
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Day style: This lady wears her hair straight, parted
in the center, and pulled down to a low bun at the nape of the
neck. Short, straight bangs (which are brushed into the rest
of her hair).
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Day style: Most of this lady's hair is covered by her
hat. We can see that her hair is straight, with a simple bun
relatively low in back and short, straight bangs.
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Day style: This lady's hair is mostly covered by her
hat, but we can see that she wears her hair straight, with a
simple bun in back and short bangs in front.
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Day style: A short center part, short curly bangs in
front, low bun (possibly braided) in back.
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1880
More of the same, although we see a few women with their
hair on top of their heads, a foreshadowing of styles to come.
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Day style: All we can see is the front of this lady's
hair, which is parted in the middle. The bangs are arranged
in careful curls.
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Evening (day?) style: This lady has curled her hair,
then pulled it back somewhat loosely and arranged it in a large
chignon wore low on the back of her head. Short, curly bangs
in front. She wears a gold or jeweled comb on top of her chignon.
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Day style: The hair is curled, parted in the center
front, and arranged on the back of the head. Short, curly bangs.
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Evening style: The hair is curled, pulled back loosely
and arranged in a knot on the top of the head. Longer, curly
bangs.
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Day style: Here we see the ubiquity of bangs -- this
older lady has the short, curly bangs we see in so many of the
other images of this era.
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Day style: The hair is waved, parted center front, and
pulled back into some kind of low arrangement on the nape of
the neck. Longer, curly bangs.
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Day style: An interesting chignon worn low at the back
of the head.
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Day style: An artistic interpretation of a "rustic"
look. Center part, short curly bangs, and wrapped braids worn
on the back of the head.
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Evening (?) style: The hair is waved, pulled back smoothly
to the crown of the head, where it is arranged in a large chignon.
No bangs.
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Day (evening?) style: This lady has waved her hair,
parted it in the center, and arranged it on the back of her
head towards the nape of the neck. Very short, straight bangs.
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1881
Even more of the same, simple style, although we're seeing
a few more buns creeping back up towards the crown and top of the head.
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Day (evening?) style: The hair is waved and pulled back
loosely to a large arrangement on the back of the head and nape
of the neck. Short, curly bangs. A ribbon encircles her hair
twice.
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Day style: Manet's painting depicts a female bar worker,
so we can assume that this is a relatively working class hairstyle.
Her hair is slightly parted in the center, and pulled back smoothly
into some kind of low bun or loop at the nape of the neck. Long,
straight bangs.
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Day (evening?) style: The hair is curled, and then pulled
back loosely into a large chignon or braid at the nape of the
neck, which is accented with small flowers (just below the ear).
Short, curly bangs.
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Day style: This lady's hair is worn in a low bun at
the nape of the neck. We can see how the hat position has changed
to cover the crown of the head (rather than the tipped forward
hats of the 1870's) -- all caused by the change in position
of the hairstyle. Short, curly bangs peek out in front.
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Evening style: The hair is waved, and pulled back into
a bun or knot at the back of the head. Medium-length, curly
bangs in front, and relatively long ringlets at the nape of
the neck.
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Day style: This lady has left her hair straight. She's
pulled it straight back (no part) into what is probably a bun
at the back of the head, encircled by a braid (possibly fake).
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Day style: Edith Wharton wears her hair curled and arranged
close to the head. She probably wears a bun at the back of the
head or nape of the neck. Short, curly bangs.
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Day style: The hair is left straight, parted in the
middle, and pulled down smoothly to a bun (possibly braided)
at the nape of the neck. Medium-length, straight bangs.
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1882
Side parts make an appearance (at least as far as this survey is concerned; side parts came in during this era, although whether that was in a particular year, I'm not sure).
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Day style: We can only see this lady's medium-length,
straight bangs in front. The rest of her hair is covered by
her hat.
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Day (evening?) style: This woman has waved her hair,
parted it on the side, and pulled it back into a french twist.
Medium-length, curly bangs in front, and short curls at the
nape of the neck.
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Evening styles: These two women wear their hair very
similarly.
On the left, she wears her hair straight with a side part,
and probably a bun at the nape of the neck.
On the right, the lady has waved her hair, parted it in the
center, and arranged in a low bun at the nape of the neck.
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Day style: This lady has waved or curled her hair.
She wears it parted in the center, with short, curly bangs
and some kind loose, curly bun at the nape of the neck.
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Day style: Short, straight bangs in front, with the
hair pulled up under her hat towards the back of the head.
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