Or hermitage? Not sure what the right term is, but I've definitely been there since Costume Con. I'm not 100% sure what it was -- the mad dash to finish multiple projects, the stress of travelling, the alignment of the planets -- but I've definitely been taking a big break from costuming since then. I did noodle a bit on a modern dress (which needs still sleeves and a hem), but mostly I've been giving myself permission to just loll around.
I think a big part is needing to get back in touch with what I love about costuming. There's many things I love -- brainstorming ideas, researching styles and techniques, wearing and putting together a beautiful ensemble, playing with personae. But what I'm not loving is the pressure that I'm hearing a lot of us discuss to constantly have New! Fabulous! Exciting! costumes for each and every event. We end up overtired, generally not 100% happy with what we made, and eyeing each other suspiciously to see who did manage to pull off an entire new wardrobe. Well, I'm done with that. I love creating costumes, and I'm not stopping, but I'm stepping back a bit to spend the time I want on the things that have meaning for me... which means moving a bit slower and letting go of the fact that everyone else seems to be able to bang out a perfect dress in a weekend. It takes me months, and I'm just going to be okay with that... especially given that I really do love sewing! So why bother to rush what I enjoy?
Another thing that's been getting to me is confusion about my own motivations. As I've become a better sewer and costumer, I've started to feel like EVERY project has to be master-award-winning-to-the-tiniest-detail, or I've failed. I've started to feel like, "What's the point of spending good money on good materials, and good time on good techniques, if I'm not 1000% accurate/perfect?" Which is ridiculous. There are things that I enjoy taking the time and care to do accurately, and then at the exact same time on the exact same project there's another thing that I can't be bothered with. I'm going to try really hard with being okay with that - not every stitch needs to be sewn by hand, I don't HAVE to use reed instead of metal boning, etc. It's okay for me to choose those historical materials or techniques that make my toes curl, and ignore those that don't. Or to use a modern material or method if I like the result. Because really, I ain't giving up my basting spray for ANYONE.
At the same time, I DO want to know what I am capable of, and I've realized that part of my angst is that I don't feel like I costume to the best of my abilities -- generally limited by time. So I've decided that *at some point*, and on *my own schedule*, I'm going to make one complete costume (I am thinking it will be the maja dress but that could change) that I will make, from the undies out, 1000% accurately. Then, when that probably multi-year project is finished, I'll enter it in a CostumeCon masquerade. I'd like to do it to prove to myself that I can do it... but that doesn't mean that every costume I make needs to be that perfect.
So with all that in mind, I've been sewing! And itching to sew, in fact! The Nell Gwyn dress is still on for the Costume College gala, even those many of my fellow mistresses have fallen by the wayside -- but that's okay! I'm really excited about experimenting with some historical techniques that I haven't tried, and working on an era I've never done, but there are also some shortcuts that I am taking. The camera has gone AWOL, so as soon as I find it there'll be an update... but yay! for costuming on my own terms and for my own love of it, and not for the imagined expectations of others (which really don't exist, anyway!).
I am back from the Costume Society of America symposium in Phoenix. The CSA is the national organization for researchers of the history of dress -- lots of academics and museum professionals, as well as some reenactors and theatrical costumers too. This was my first time attending the symposium -- it was quite interesting and fun, altho a very different animal from Costume College/Con (naturally).
Some of the highlights for me were:
Visiting the Phoenix Art Museum's Medievalism exhibition. Lots of 20th century costumes, a few earlier ones. There were some really amazing pieces, including a 1916 suit that made me REALLY want to do that era, a gorgeous yellow sheer Regency dress with perfect brown ribbon trim, a green 1840s dress that had the teeniest stitches I've ever seen (it had to be like 20 stitches per inch at least), and more.
Two professional development sessions (one on using theory in research, the other on writing) were very helpful, and gave me some good ideas for my current project on French appropriation of Turkish dress in the 18th c.
Lots of interesting presentations, most notably (to me):
- Anne Bissonnette (Kent State Univ. Museum) and Harold Koda (Costume Institute at the Met) presented on exhibitions they'd created. There was a very fascinating discussion afterwards with Koda about the Costume Institute's funding, as well as the transfer of the Brooklyn Museum's costume collection.
- Kelly Mohs Gage (Univ. of Minnesota) presented on African slave women's dress in 19th c. Rio de Janiero. She used photographs and ads for runaway slaves published in a local newspaper, and it was really interesting to hear how they mixed European-style dress with African adornment, and how that changed in later generations.
- Christina Bates (Canadian Museum of Civilization) spoke about nursing uniforms in late 19th/early 20th c. Canada, discussing the development of the uniforms and the various related gender issues -- interesting to me because of its parallels with the research I've done on college women in the 1920s (who weren't wearing uniforms, but had similar issues going on).
- Jo Paoletti (Univ. of Maryland) talked about the feminization of pink. As someone who LOVED pink when I was little and now refuses to wear it (because of it's association with VERY traditional femininity), it was interesting to hear how late that association developed (1950s) and how fluid it was.
I got to meet and chat with a number of costume researchers whose work I admire - I sat next to Patricia Cunningham (who has written on dress reform, among other work) on the bus to the Phoenix Art Museum, and watched Candace Kling work on ribbonwork during a presentation and then chatted with her about 18th c. trimmings afterwards. Mela Hoyt-Heydon (an amazing theatrical costumer who usually teaches at Costume College) was there and was kind enough to introduce me around to a number of interesting people.
One thing I'd like to participate in at a future symposium is the Angels Project, where they organize volunteers to help out at a local museum's costume collection -- generally with cleaning, storing, cataloging, etc. They take people of all skill levels, so this would be a great way to check out museum work for a day!
There is a marketplace, which is only open one day -- there was a vintage clothing dealer with some stunning offerings, altho I restrained myself by chanting, "But do you NEED it?" I did pick up a museum catalog from one of the book dealers.
To see the full run-down on the symposium's offerings, including the many tours (which I didn't participate in), check out this pdf.
Next year is in Kansas City MO, and if I'm not in Europe, I'll be there!
Tomorrow I am off to Phoenix for the Costume Society of America's annual symposium. This will be my first time attending, and I'm hoping it will be really interesting! I'm really excited about getting to see the Phoenix Art Museum's medievalism exhibition - if I can take photos, I will. I'll give a full run down on the conference when I get back. I'm debating whether to go to Boca Bargoons, which is about 15 min. away from where I'm staying - as I'm always on the hunt for interesting fabrics. Has anyone been to the Scottsdale location - is it worth the trip?
In other news, I've been hibernating a bit since Costume Con, both due to being wiped but also to force myself to stick to my no-more-last-minute-frenzied-event-sewing mantra (which has been hard, but good). It's actually worked out well, as I recovered a parasol (one of those many projects I mean to get to but never do as I'm too busy making The Next Big Dress), and am almost done with a new camicia (my just finished last year one was accidentally dyed pink in the wash; faire season is starting up, so it's important I have everything functioning!). Speaking of which, I'll be out at Valhalla Faire 2nd weekend (June 6-7) with Bella Donna - maybe I'll see some of you there?
And wow, am I beat! On Wednesday, myself, Katherine, Sarah, Trystan, Leia, and Lindsey went to Colonial Williamsburg. We only had the one day, and to be honest it was the reason (for me) to make the trip. It was GORGEOUS!!!! We lucked out and had lovely cool, overcast weather (I was afraid I'd either sweat to death or be rained on). We stayed in one of the Colonial Houses, right in the heart of Williamsburg, and had an amazing time rambling around taking pictures and being period and silly (and had our pictures taken by other tourists so much that we got pretty cranky about it late in the day).
We did some shopping, and didn't get around to going into any of the interpreter's shops until late in the day, when we found that contrary to what we'd been told when we booked our lodging, we had to pay about $30 each to get official tickets. Given that it was about 3pm by then, and really our goal had been to run around, take pictures, and be pretty pretty princesses, we decided to skip it. So, I'll have to go back another time to see the milliner's, wigmaker's, and other shops! In the evening, we went to Christina Campbell's for dinner, and I think we're all spoonbread converts now. After dinner, we went to one of the taverns for drinks, where we sang Irish and Renfaire songs (which are probably all 18th century anyway) and chatted with some of the interpreters. Probably the best part of it all was when, around midnight, some of us wandered through Williamsburg (still in costume), tipsy and just loving the magic of it all - that's a memory that will stay with me for a very, very long time. I've posted my photos from Williamsburg to Flickr.
Thursday we went to visit our friend Loren in northwestern VA. She lives in a restored 18th c. farmhouse, and she'd put on an amazingly beautiful tea in her home for us and other area costumers. The spread was gorgeous, and we had fun chatting, eating, drinking, and wandering around her beautiful farm (despite arriving about 2 hours late!).
Friday we headed to Costume Con in Baltimore. I'd originally planned to join the costumed tea, but I was so beat from all the running around of the past few days that I opted to skip it, which was probably a great idea. Instead, I was able to unpack, take a nap, and make it to the Friday Night Social without turning into a crabby 2-year-old. The social was fun - there were TONS of people there in 18th c. costume, and the eye candy stretched for miles!
The con itself was fun, although I missed many of my West Coast costume peeps. As per usual, there wasn't TOO much programming of interest to me, so I mostly focused on hanging out and socializing. The masquerades were both great -- the scifi/fantasy one was so crowded that a group of us went up to my room (which had a window overlooking the atrium in which the show was held) and had a bird's eye view of the show. The historical masquerade had many wonderful entries from a wide range of eras/inspirations, and it made me think more seriously about my next foray! My photos from the con are on Flickr.
Wearing 18th century all week was on the one hand fun, but by the end of it I was vowing "No more 18th century for me!" Except that now I'm back and I have a pet-en-l'air swimming around in my brain and poking me from time to time. However, I do have to say that after yet ANOTHER mad rush to finish lots of new costumes, and watching everyone else's stress, I am determined to stop participating in the "must have new stuff all the time!" madness (for my own sanity). I'd just much rather noodle along, taking my time and enjoying myself, than giving over every free moment to frenzied sewing.
So with that in mind, I've revised my future costuming plans. Nell Gwyn is still on the docket, but she'll be my Costume College gala dress, and that may be the only costume I make between now and then. I'm definitely still going to make the 1775 maja gown, but I want to REALLY take my time with that, as it will be my next Costume Con masquerade entry (2010? 2011? who knows!), and I'd like to make it by hand, and add to it new 18th century undies. My goal is to make just one costume to the utmost of my abilities, and that's going to require time, time, time.
But for now, I think I need to be a bit of a hermit!
Agh! One week to go before I leave for Colonial Williamsburg/Costume Con and while I am on target, I am feeling overwhelmed. I spent most of the weekend making a hat, which didn't end up being what it was supposed to (but when do hats ever behave)? I am 99.99% done on my polonaise - just need to add ties to the petticoat skirt and figure out the polonaise-ing. Pics soon. This week, I need to add lace to my turque, then that will be done.
I also need to bang out another 18th c. shift, dye my hair, create a packing list, and pack. Agh!
In terms of what I'm bringing... obviously the two new dresses. I might bring one other 18th c. dress (but which one? agh!). Two wigs (hedgehog and pouf), the new hat. Mustn't forget shoes and pocket and jewelry and makeup and... CRAP, maybe it would be a good idea if I got organized for my panel! Ok, off to hyperventilate.
If you're interested in buying the catalog for the 18th century court costume exhibit discussed below (Fastes de Cour), it's now available at the cheapest price here from Amazon.fr. Yes, the interface is all in French, but the layout/buttons are exactly the same as the English language version, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out -- and you can sign in to your Amazon.com account and it will pull up all your info. (Random site note: adding tags to this post to see if those are useful; if so, I'll eventually go back and tag older entries too.)
If you don't live anywhere near Paris, be depressed with me that you are missing what looks like one of the more fabulous costume exhibits ever: Fastes de Cour: Le Costume de Cour en Europe, 1650-1800, currently on exhibit at the Chateau de Versailles. The website is fabulous, I've just ordered the catalogue, but I am still depressed. I am even more depressed to miss the symposium in early June. Do check out the website. Make sure you zoom the pictures. Le sigh.
[DAY-mo-day] adjective: old fashioned, out of style, unfashionable [from French, the past participle of démoder "to go out of fashion," from mode "fashion"].
