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noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Mon, 31 Aug 2009 02:59:00 +0000

PROJECTS

Look!

I made a corset!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Sun, 30 Aug 2009 23:58:00 +0000

PROJECTS

1775 Maja costume

This project is undergoing a tweak... read more about my 1775 Maja costume project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:37:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

Article on 16th c. Florentine fashions

Some of you may be interested in a new article in Renaissance Studies (2009, vol. 23 issue 1): "Clothing and a Florentine Style, 1550-1620."

Here's the abstract: "This article addresses the links between Renaissance clothing and identity, focusing on the reigns of the first Medici grand dukes, a period when the political and social make-up of the Florentine elite underwent profound changes. Drawing on a wide range of sources, from sumptuary legislation, court correspondence and family account books to tailors' patterns, it examines different ways of thinking about and analysing dress styles. Taking the under-explored subject of male dress, it concentrates on two specific clothing types: the traditional full-length cloak, known as the lucco, worn by government office holders, and the liveries of the Medici courtiers. It concludes with the role played by local textile production, a vital aspect of Florentine culture as well as its economy. Although the Medici family's efforts to shape the dress of its subjects were partially successful, certain fundamental elements of the city's sartorial ethos resisted change."

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:03:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

Mad Men costume roundup

Do you love Mad Men as much as I do? If so, it's probably because not only is a great story, but also the amazing attention to period detail. And I am increasingly learning to LOVE the early 1960s, so yeah -- if I could have Joan Holloway's hair & wardrobe, I'd be pretty happy.

Here's an interview with the costume designer at the San Francisco Chronicle and another at Glamour. The series website has a video tour of the costume shop. And don't forget to Mad Men yourself!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 21:04:00 +0000

EVENTS

Costume College report & pics

Right! Costume College! I went! I taught some classes! I went to parties! I dressed up! I didn't sleep much! I kicked people out of my room at ungodly hours!

The longer report: the classes I taught went well -- I ran out of time to do an actual GOOD styling job in the wig class, but it seemed like people were happy with getting the theory. Phew! I taught "Turkish Influence on 18th Century Fashion & the Zone Bodice," "Draping the 18th c. Robe a la Francaise," and "1770s Big Hair - How to Style a Wig into a 'Pouf.'"

I only managed to sneak in a few classes: "Stays and the Body" was quite interesting, especially as I haven't studied early 18th c. stays very much. Looking at the changes in silhouette and patterning was quite interesting. Sally Queen's jacket lecture touched on some of the points I made in my 18th c. Turkish class, plus listening to her talk is ALWAYS great. And Trystan's Macaroni class was fabulous -- I love men in crazy late 18th c. costume! - even if I almost fell asleep at the end from lack of sleep.

The socializing was, as always, fabulous, altho everyone at my gala table was ready to fall asleep (too much fun the night before, plus the snoozerific music didn't help -- hello, it's dinner at Versailles! Ever heard of playing 18th century music??), but once we got up and started dancing things improved. It was lots of fun to wear my Nell Gwyn costume, even if as soon as I put it on I had an overwhelming desire to be wearing jeans. Besides that costume, I really didn't dress up (okay, wore the 1920s dress on Friday, but didn't bother on Sat. & Sun.). Too tired!

All in all, it was fun if not 1000% fabulous... but that was mostly my burnout from Costume Con. However, as you can guess from my last post, shopping was great and I have tons of ideas for this year's costumes!

And, most important - pictures!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:46:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

LA Garment District shopping report

Bunny is right, Costume College IS new year's for costumers... what's with this end of the (calendar) year wrap-up? CoCo is when I finish things and make evil plans for the coming year. With that being said, we went fabric shopping! (Yes, photos and recap of CoCo coming soon).

I was mostly good -- my plan was to fill out planned projects for which I already had fabric, and I mostly stuck to that except for one big failure... I need new corsets for every era that I do, so I bought some green and gold (greener in person) silk damask at Home Fabrics, as well as some dark red silk taffeta ($6/yard!!) at Valentine's to go with the red and white indienne print ikea cotton that I have slated to be a polonaise. I was being good, I swear, when this cream and cherry striped silk taffeta jumped out and bit me at Home Fabrics (okay, Mela agreeing that it was perfect and Sarah nodding so hard she got whiplash didn't help)! I've ALWAYS wanted a stripey silk francaise, ever since I saw the 3 striped francaises in Revolution in Fashion (and the Kyoto fashion book) -- and that stripe was just such a great color, plus the groupings of the stripes were so much more right for the period than most striped taffetas... so then I went back to Valentine's to get the cherry (less bright pink in person) silk taffeta also in that picture for a petticoat. Stripes! Yay! Oh, and Sarah bought the same fabric in yellow and true red, with a true red solid for the petticoat... while normally I would die if I had the same fabric as someone else, I actually talked her into buying it, because - hey, we just need one more and then we can recreate that Kyoto/Revolution in Fashion 3 striped francaises photo!

So the plan for this year, so far, is:

1. New 16th c. corset. I need it - my current one is on its last legs. It'll actually be patterned off my Nell Gwyn bodice, but psh I say to those who sneer. It's a great pattern, more flattering than something with straighter bones in the front, and I don't care if it's not period -- it'll give me a good shape. (And besides, with only 2 surviving LATE 16th c. examples, we don't really know enough about how they did it!)

2. New 18th c. stays. This is what's on my mind right now. After admiring the tone on tone damasks that Trystan and Loren had Sarah use in their new effigy corsets, I looked everywhere in the garment district for something similar -- only to discover that embroidered silks are in and damasks are out! So I got 2 yards of this silk from Fabricguru.com and it's on its way to me. Am I crazy to think about handsewing these? I really am. But then I'm also debating linen (evil stretchy!) versus coutil, and I'm definitely using metal boning, so then I'm wondering if handsewing is superfluous. But then I'm trying to costume for ME, right? Not for anyone else's expectations. Hmm. I want to bind it in cream and use cream ribbon/braid on the seams, but I'm hemming about what exactly to use -- linen tape is period, but is that too middle class-y with the silk? Maybe use petersham? I'd love to use something silk, but it's so hard to find silk ribbon that isn't semi-flimsy satin.

3. The cherry stripe francaise will be for next year's CoCo gala (the theme is Steampunk, to which I say meh!). I'm looking for a good cherry-colored faux-fly-fringe, and contemplating making my own (someone hit me!).

Somewhere in there, I need a new 18th c. shift and new 16th c. roped petticoat. Nothing exciting about those. I'm also thinking about the maja dress, the red & white ikea polonaise, and this fabulous very 18th c. silk sari that needs to be something 1780s, but I'm not sure what... the fabric lends itself to a gaulle/chemise, but I only have enough fabric to make a fitted bodice. Hmm!

Okay, this was long!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:42:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

I'm very very, if only 99%, pleased... read more about my Nell Gwyn (c. 1668) project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 19:54:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

The dress is done, although I'll limit myself... read more about my Nell Gwyn (c. 1668) project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Thu, 23 Jul 2009 21:55:00 +0000

EVENTS

Costume College prep

I think I'm going to take it easy this year at CoCo -- I'm bringing Nell Gywn for the gala, but I think that's it for big costumes. Otherwise, I think I'll be in random vintage-y/comfy bits. I've been contemplating bringing my turque for the class I'm teaching on this, but then I started to list all the components I'd need (plus the fact that my hedgehog is in desperate need of restyling) and I started to feel overwhelmed... On both Saturday and Sunday I'm teaching classes where I need to be able to move and/or get grubby, so costumes are out those days. And for Friday night, I've got a last minute secret project... but more on that at/after!

I've been working LIKE A MADWOMAN on my classes... and I still have more to prep. Remind me why I do this? I wrote out a shopping list today and am trying to stick to the idea of getting supplies to fill out projects that I already have fabric for, but it's amazing how much you need once you start to list it all out. Luckily I've got a 3 day weekend ahead of me, so hopefully? I'll be able to get it all done by Sunday, and then have Mon. & Weds. evenings to pack!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Wed, 22 Jul 2009 21:43:00 +0000

SITE UPDATES

Real Women's Clothing Directory

The Real Women's Clothing Directory has had all its links fixed, so you shouldn't come across anything broken (hopefully). I'm slowly working on an update, but it's making me think... as more and more museums put their collections online, it's become harder for me to keep up with it all (hence the about once yearly update). Would you mind terribly if the guide became a link to museums' online collections pages/databases? Or is having it all sorted for you incredibly useful?

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:34:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

Bodice finishing: a tragedy in pictures...read more about my c. 1668 Nell Gwyn project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 22:34:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

18th century research sources

For anyone interested in 18th century costume research, particularly French sources, check out the amazing La Mesur d'Excellence. The Modes section includes scans (sometimes many pages, sometimes only a few) of some really important and rare sources. It's worth clicking on the preview images, because sometimes the full "image" actually includes a couple of pages (not shown in the preview). What an amazing collection!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:30:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

I only had one day to sew last weekend... read more about my Nell Gwyn (c. 1668) project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Thu, 09 Jul 2009 22:17:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

Can you handle the cuteness? read more about my c. 1668 Nell Gwyn project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Wed, 08 Jul 2009 17:29:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What Would Nell Gwyn Wear?

Thank goodness for 3 day weekends... read more about my Nell Gwyn (c. 1668) project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Thu, 02 Jul 2009 17:54:00 +0000

PROJECTS

What would Nell Gwyn wear? (c. 1668)

Taking that sewing break was great... read more about my c. 1668 Nell Gwyn project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 23:18:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

Coming out of retirement

Or hermitage? Not sure what the right term is, but I've definitely been there since Costume Con. I'm not 100% sure what it was -- the mad dash to finish multiple projects, the stress of travelling, the alignment of the planets -- but I've definitely been taking a big break from costuming since then. I did noodle a bit on a modern dress (which needs still sleeves and a hem), but mostly I've been giving myself permission to just loll around.

I think a big part is needing to get back in touch with what I love about costuming. There's many things I love -- brainstorming ideas, researching styles and techniques, wearing and putting together a beautiful ensemble, playing with personae. But what I'm not loving is the pressure that I'm hearing a lot of us discuss to constantly have New! Fabulous! Exciting! costumes for each and every event. We end up overtired, generally not 100% happy with what we made, and eyeing each other suspiciously to see who did manage to pull off an entire new wardrobe. Well, I'm done with that. I love creating costumes, and I'm not stopping, but I'm stepping back a bit to spend the time I want on the things that have meaning for me... which means moving a bit slower and letting go of the fact that everyone else seems to be able to bang out a perfect dress in a weekend. It takes me months, and I'm just going to be okay with that... especially given that I really do love sewing! So why bother to rush what I enjoy?

Another thing that's been getting to me is confusion about my own motivations. As I've become a better sewer and costumer, I've started to feel like EVERY project has to be master-award-winning-to-the-tiniest-detail, or I've failed. I've started to feel like, "What's the point of spending good money on good materials, and good time on good techniques, if I'm not 1000% accurate/perfect?" Which is ridiculous. There are things that I enjoy taking the time and care to do accurately, and then at the exact same time on the exact same project there's another thing that I can't be bothered with. I'm going to try really hard with being okay with that - not every stitch needs to be sewn by hand, I don't HAVE to use reed instead of metal boning, etc. It's okay for me to choose those historical materials or techniques that make my toes curl, and ignore those that don't. Or to use a modern material or method if I like the result. Because really, I ain't giving up my basting spray for ANYONE.

At the same time, I DO want to know what I am capable of, and I've realized that part of my angst is that I don't feel like I costume to the best of my abilities -- generally limited by time. So I've decided that *at some point*, and on *my own schedule*, I'm going to make one complete costume (I am thinking it will be the maja dress but that could change) that I will make, from the undies out, 1000% accurately. Then, when that probably multi-year project is finished, I'll enter it in a CostumeCon masquerade. I'd like to do it to prove to myself that I can do it... but that doesn't mean that every costume I make needs to be that perfect.

So with all that in mind, I've been sewing! And itching to sew, in fact! The Nell Gwyn dress is still on for the Costume College gala, even those many of my fellow mistresses have fallen by the wayside -- but that's okay! I'm really excited about experimenting with some historical techniques that I haven't tried, and working on an era I've never done, but there are also some shortcuts that I am taking. The camera has gone AWOL, so as soon as I find it there'll be an update... but yay! for costuming on my own terms and for my own love of it, and not for the imagined expectations of others (which really don't exist, anyway!).

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 21:08:00 +0000

EVENTS

Costume Society of America symposium

I am back from the Costume Society of America symposium in Phoenix. The CSA is the national organization for researchers of the history of dress -- lots of academics and museum professionals, as well as some reenactors and theatrical costumers too. This was my first time attending the symposium -- it was quite interesting and fun, altho a very different animal from Costume College/Con (naturally).

Some of the highlights for me were:

Visiting the Phoenix Art Museum's Medievalism exhibition. Lots of 20th century costumes, a few earlier ones. There were some really amazing pieces, including a 1916 suit that made me REALLY want to do that era, a gorgeous yellow sheer Regency dress with perfect brown ribbon trim, a green 1840s dress that had the teeniest stitches I've ever seen (it had to be like 20 stitches per inch at least), and more.

Two professional development sessions (one on using theory in research, the other on writing) were very helpful, and gave me some good ideas for my current project on French appropriation of Turkish dress in the 18th c.

Lots of interesting presentations, most notably (to me):

- Anne Bissonnette (Kent State Univ. Museum) and Harold Koda (Costume Institute at the Met) presented on exhibitions they'd created. There was a very fascinating discussion afterwards with Koda about the Costume Institute's funding, as well as the transfer of the Brooklyn Museum's costume collection.

- Kelly Mohs Gage (Univ. of Minnesota) presented on African slave women's dress in 19th c. Rio de Janiero. She used photographs and ads for runaway slaves published in a local newspaper, and it was really interesting to hear how they mixed European-style dress with African adornment, and how that changed in later generations.

- Christina Bates (Canadian Museum of Civilization) spoke about nursing uniforms in late 19th/early 20th c. Canada, discussing the development of the uniforms and the various related gender issues -- interesting to me because of its parallels with the research I've done on college women in the 1920s (who weren't wearing uniforms, but had similar issues going on).

- Jo Paoletti (Univ. of Maryland) talked about the feminization of pink. As someone who LOVED pink when I was little and now refuses to wear it (because of it's association with VERY traditional femininity), it was interesting to hear how late that association developed (1950s) and how fluid it was.

I got to meet and chat with a number of costume researchers whose work I admire - I sat next to Patricia Cunningham (who has written on dress reform, among other work) on the bus to the Phoenix Art Museum, and watched Candace Kling work on ribbonwork during a presentation and then chatted with her about 18th c. trimmings afterwards. Mela Hoyt-Heydon (an amazing theatrical costumer who usually teaches at Costume College) was there and was kind enough to introduce me around to a number of interesting people.

One thing I'd like to participate in at a future symposium is the Angels Project, where they organize volunteers to help out at a local museum's costume collection -- generally with cleaning, storing, cataloging, etc. They take people of all skill levels, so this would be a great way to check out museum work for a day!

There is a marketplace, which is only open one day -- there was a vintage clothing dealer with some stunning offerings, altho I restrained myself by chanting, "But do you NEED it?" I did pick up a museum catalog from one of the book dealers.

To see the full run-down on the symposium's offerings, including the many tours (which I didn't participate in), check out this pdf.

Next year is in Kansas City MO, and if I'm not in Europe, I'll be there!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Tue, 26 May 2009 19:04:00 +0000

EVENTS

Costume Society of America symposium

Tomorrow I am off to Phoenix for the Costume Society of America's annual symposium. This will be my first time attending, and I'm hoping it will be really interesting! I'm really excited about getting to see the Phoenix Art Museum's medievalism exhibition - if I can take photos, I will. I'll give a full run down on the conference when I get back. I'm debating whether to go to Boca Bargoons, which is about 15 min. away from where I'm staying - as I'm always on the hunt for interesting fabrics. Has anyone been to the Scottsdale location - is it worth the trip?

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Wed, 20 May 2009 23:20:00 +0000

SITE UPDATES

Costume in Cinema: New Reviews

I've just posted new costume movie reviews, with a raft of 20th c. films (who knew?). Fanny Hill, Wuthering Heights, Affinity, Australia, Brideshead Revisited, Kitt Kittredge, and The Reader. And the Upcoming Movies page has been brought up to date.

In other news, I've been hibernating a bit since Costume Con, both due to being wiped but also to force myself to stick to my no-more-last-minute-frenzied-event-sewing mantra (which has been hard, but good). It's actually worked out well, as I recovered a parasol (one of those many projects I mean to get to but never do as I'm too busy making The Next Big Dress), and am almost done with a new camicia (my just finished last year one was accidentally dyed pink in the wash; faire season is starting up, so it's important I have everything functioning!). Speaking of which, I'll be out at Valhalla Faire 2nd weekend (June 6-7) with Bella Donna - maybe I'll see some of you there?

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 08 May 2009 20:12:00 +0000

PROJECTS

1770s robe à la turque

Done, and I'm actually happy with it! read more about my 1770s robe à la turque project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 08 May 2009 20:09:00 +0000

PROJECTS

1770s robe à la polonaise

Finished... but I'm not happy with it... read more about my 1770s robe à la polonaise project

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 08 May 2009 19:47:00 +0000

EVENTS

Back from Costume Con 27

And wow, am I beat! On Wednesday, myself, Katherine, Sarah, Trystan, Leia, and Lindsey went to Colonial Williamsburg. We only had the one day, and to be honest it was the reason (for me) to make the trip. It was GORGEOUS!!!! We lucked out and had lovely cool, overcast weather (I was afraid I'd either sweat to death or be rained on). We stayed in one of the Colonial Houses, right in the heart of Williamsburg, and had an amazing time rambling around taking pictures and being period and silly (and had our pictures taken by other tourists so much that we got pretty cranky about it late in the day).

We did some shopping, and didn't get around to going into any of the interpreter's shops until late in the day, when we found that contrary to what we'd been told when we booked our lodging, we had to pay about $30 each to get official tickets. Given that it was about 3pm by then, and really our goal had been to run around, take pictures, and be pretty pretty princesses, we decided to skip it. So, I'll have to go back another time to see the milliner's, wigmaker's, and other shops! In the evening, we went to Christina Campbell's for dinner, and I think we're all spoonbread converts now. After dinner, we went to one of the taverns for drinks, where we sang Irish and Renfaire songs (which are probably all 18th century anyway) and chatted with some of the interpreters. Probably the best part of it all was when, around midnight, some of us wandered through Williamsburg (still in costume), tipsy and just loving the magic of it all - that's a memory that will stay with me for a very, very long time. I've posted my photos from Williamsburg to Flickr.

Thursday we went to visit our friend Loren in northwestern VA. She lives in a restored 18th c. farmhouse, and she'd put on an amazingly beautiful tea in her home for us and other area costumers. The spread was gorgeous, and we had fun chatting, eating, drinking, and wandering around her beautiful farm (despite arriving about 2 hours late!).

Friday we headed to Costume Con in Baltimore. I'd originally planned to join the costumed tea, but I was so beat from all the running around of the past few days that I opted to skip it, which was probably a great idea. Instead, I was able to unpack, take a nap, and make it to the Friday Night Social without turning into a crabby 2-year-old. The social was fun - there were TONS of people there in 18th c. costume, and the eye candy stretched for miles!

The con itself was fun, although I missed many of my West Coast costume peeps. As per usual, there wasn't TOO much programming of interest to me, so I mostly focused on hanging out and socializing. The masquerades were both great -- the scifi/fantasy one was so crowded that a group of us went up to my room (which had a window overlooking the atrium in which the show was held) and had a bird's eye view of the show. The historical masquerade had many wonderful entries from a wide range of eras/inspirations, and it made me think more seriously about my next foray! My photos from the con are on Flickr.

Wearing 18th century all week was on the one hand fun, but by the end of it I was vowing "No more 18th century for me!" Except that now I'm back and I have a pet-en-l'air swimming around in my brain and poking me from time to time. However, I do have to say that after yet ANOTHER mad rush to finish lots of new costumes, and watching everyone else's stress, I am determined to stop participating in the "must have new stuff all the time!" madness (for my own sanity). I'd just much rather noodle along, taking my time and enjoying myself, than giving over every free moment to frenzied sewing.

So with that in mind, I've revised my future costuming plans. Nell Gwyn is still on the docket, but she'll be my Costume College gala dress, and that may be the only costume I make between now and then. I'm definitely still going to make the 1775 maja gown, but I want to REALLY take my time with that, as it will be my next Costume Con masquerade entry (2010? 2011? who knows!), and I'd like to make it by hand, and add to it new 18th century undies. My goal is to make just one costume to the utmost of my abilities, and that's going to require time, time, time.

But for now, I think I need to be a bit of a hermit!

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Mon, 20 Apr 2009 17:54:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

Williamsburg/Costume Con sewing & planning

Agh! One week to go before I leave for Colonial Williamsburg/Costume Con and while I am on target, I am feeling overwhelmed. I spent most of the weekend making a hat, which didn't end up being what it was supposed to (but when do hats ever behave)? I am 99.99% done on my polonaise - just need to add ties to the petticoat skirt and figure out the polonaise-ing. Pics soon. This week, I need to add lace to my turque, then that will be done.

I also need to bang out another 18th c. shift, dye my hair, create a packing list, and pack. Agh!

In terms of what I'm bringing... obviously the two new dresses. I might bring one other 18th c. dress (but which one? agh!). Two wigs (hedgehog and pouf), the new hat. Mustn't forget shoes and pocket and jewelry and makeup and... CRAP, maybe it would be a good idea if I got organized for my panel! Ok, off to hyperventilate.

noreply@blogger.com (Kendra) — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 17:39:00 +0000

COMMENTARY

18th c. Court Costume Book Now Available

If you're interested in buying the catalog for the 18th century court costume exhibit discussed below (Fastes de Cour), it's now available at the cheapest price here from Amazon.fr. Yes, the interface is all in French, but the layout/buttons are exactly the same as the English language version, so it shouldn't be too hard to figure out -- and you can sign in to your Amazon.com account and it will pull up all your info. (Random site note: adding tags to this post to see if those are useful; if so, I'll eventually go back and tag older entries too.)